Photos by Sharon Wootton/For The Olympian
The lighthouse at San Juan Island's Lime Kiln State Park is a popular perch for whale watching. The 36-acre park also offers a beach, camping and picnic areas.

The picturesque Orcas Hotel is one of the first sights visitors take in as they arrive at the Orcas Island ferry landing.

Islands to explore

Look for 19th-century relics at Friday Harbor in San Juan Islands

SHARON WOOTTON, FOR THE OLYMPIAN

The world won't come to an end if you pass by Friday Harbor without stopping on a visit to the San Juan Islands. But make one stop anyway, for history's sake.

Drop into the San Juan Island National Historic Park visitors center at 325 Spring St. Here the past attracts even children.

"Is this stuff from the Titanic?" one small visitor asked after excitedly dashing over to an artifacts case.

No, but artifacts and history lessons abound on the island's south end (American Camp) and west side (English Camp). About 1 million artifacts from American Indians, pioneers and the military have been retrieved from the two sites, almost all stored off-island.

Pig War artifacts

The island's historical claim to fame is the Pig War. In 1859, an American farmer got tired of a pig rooting in his potato patch and shot it. The Hudson Bay Company wanted restitution, and the farmer refused.

The incident nearly escalated into a shooting match because the United States and the British both wanted to claim the region. The incident escalated with the arrival of the 9th U.S. Infantry and three British warships.

Eventually, calmer heads prevailed. The three warships never fired a shot on the Americans, and both sides developed their own camps. The Americans remained at Cattle Point, and the British established English Camp 15 miles away.

There are artifacts, including a child's letter block; glass and ceramic marbles for the games of enclosure and chase; medicinal bottles, uniform buttons, and a torpedo-shaped soda-water bottle designed to lie on its side so the cork would stay moist.

More than 200,000 visitors will stop at American Camp this year, which is a good reason for a trip now before the ferry lines are routinely on overload.

"The camp's not here just because of the history, though," said Ranger Mike Vouri, author of "The Pig War: Standoff at Griffin Bay." "It's one of the last remaining prairies in the islands, so it's here partly because of history and partly because of the land itself."

Miles of trails

There are several miles of trails through various ecosystems in the two camps, including climbs to Mount Young (English Camp) and Mount Finlayson (American Camp), some trails for history, some for view. Each camp has an excellent brochure for self-guided walks.

American Camp is the more spectacular; wind-swept bluffs remind some visitors of Ireland, Vouri said. At Robert's Redoubt, Mount Baker, the north Cascades, Admiralty Inlet, Mount Rainier and Vancouver Island are on parade on a clear day.

Even in April the west-side land has a dryish look to it as visitors drive through farmland on Cattle Point, Bailer Hill and West Side roads. The scenery abruptly changes to wide-open views of water at the beginning of the West Side Road Scenic Area.

There's no beach access along most of this narrow route (watch out for bicycles) where the hillside drops precipitously, but there are a few pull-offs. Madronas and other trees dominate the landscape.

Before leaving the water views, stop at 36-acre Lime Kiln State Park, with its 1919 lighthouse and the best perches for orca-watching.

The much-used San Juan County Park features a beach on tiny Smallpox Bay, and camping and picnic areas. At night, campers can see the lights of Vancouver Island on the other side of Haro Strait.

Beyond the park, keep an eye out for the "free" stand at the intersection of West Side Road and Pleasant Valley Road. In the interest of recycling, a resident keeps a neat display of objects for the taking (roller skates, hubcaps, car door), although not all residents are amused.

Snug Harbor Marina and Resort is a pretty pocket of boats and cabins on Mitchell Bay. After a long stretch of farms and forests, swing into a beautifully maintained alpaca farm on West Valley Road. The owners have built a parking area so sightseers can get off the road rather than cause an accident. Alpacas, herd animals native to the Andes, are prized for their luxurious and pricey fiber that's harvested by shearing once a year.

Swing into English Camp with a pleasant ride through the woods in marked contrast to the American Camp scenery. The English had the better location, with gardens, forests and protection from the winds.

Trails, a cemetery and old buildings are the stars of this area. Each summer rangers and volunteers give guided walks and demonstrations, and a re-enactment of camp life is given each August.

A visit to the west side wouldn't be complete without a stop at Roche Harbor Resort and Marina with its colorful gardens and the remains of what was once the largest lime-producing company west of the Mississippi (15,000 barrels of lime a day). For $1, buy a walking tour brochure and wander the grounds.

Hotel de Haro, once a Hudson Bay trading post, has housed actor John Wayne and President Theodore Roosevelt.

Take your meals from the Lime Kiln Cafe, Madrona Bar and Grill, or McMillin Restaurant, the three eating options at Roche Harbor.

From there, make the run down the east side of the island past Lakedale Resort, San Juan Vineyards, and cattle and dairy farms back to the ferry.

Sharon Wootton is a free-lance writer who lives on Shaw Island.

The Olympian Copyright 2001

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