Courtesy Lake Chelan Boat Co., Port of Chelan County
The Lady of the Lake glides across 1,500-foot-deep Lake Chelan, the nation's third-deepest lake.

Deep into the fun

On the water, around it and above it, Lake Chelan is a study in contrasts

SHARON WOOTTON, FOR THE OLYMPIAN

Bone-warming heat and a large body of cooling water that stretches 55 miles into the saw-toothed mountains of North Cascades National Park are part of the temptation of the Chelan area.

But only part, because the activity list is long enough to keep visitors occupied for weeks at a time.

When it comes to freshwater recreation, this is the top spot in the state. Lake Chelan is the third-deepest lake (1,500 feet) in the United States, and it resembles a Norwegian fjord with a split personality.

The shorelines near the Columbia River are filling up with destination resorts (including the upscale Wapato Point), condominiums, motels and recreation activity centers.

The upper part of the lake is almost a mirror opposite, where nature and quiet still hold the upper hand and mountain peaks are reflected in the clear waters.

The summer heat around the lake means rising thermals that bring hang gliders and paragliders for national and world championships.

Bird's-eye view

Don Reinhard of Personal Flight, which offers tandem hang gliding and paragliding flights, has had a bird's-eye view while gliding over the Chelan Valley.

"It's breathtaking. You're flying up there with no noise, and you get a view that a bird would be able to see ... you can see 30, 40, 50 miles," Reinhard said.

"It's actually common for some pilots to seek out birds because they're great for finding thermals. Then they share the same thermal with the birds," he said.

It's hard to think about turning your back on the lake, but people are rewarded when they do.

About 15 murals liven up Chelan, including a brightly painted Lake Chelan brand apple label near the visitor center, a stage that ran on old Chelan Falls Road from 1895 to 1910, and local scenes from the turn of the 20th century.

A surprise for all but repeat visitors is Chelan Riverwalk Park, a 1-mile scenic river loop trail with some wonderful large shade trees.

This is, of course, apple country. Although apples still dominate, growers have increased the number of vineyards, nectarines and cherries.

On the north shore, take the Manson scenic loop. Start at Old Mill Park two miles east of town and ride through orchards and past small lakes for about 16 miles. Stop at Banjo Creek Farms for gold panning, Western dinners and a petting zoo for kids.

Ride the South Shore Road to just past 25 Mile Creek State Park, turn left at Holden B&B. When the road forks at the end of the pavement, stay to the right and keep soaking up the views that just get better as the elevation increases.

Tours to Stehekin

Or check out the scenery from the lake on an excursion aboard the Lady of the Lake II, Lady Express or Lady Cat.

The three have different carrying capacities and speeds. Generally, the slower the boat the more stops and the longer day; the faster the boat, the quicker the run, the fewer the stops. Passengers can arrange to go uplake on one boat, downlake on another.

All have a 60- to 90-minute layover in Stehekin if you are returning on the same boat. Or stay in Stehekin and take a bus trip to 312-foot Rainbow Falls, the lower valley bike tour or the High Bridge bus and lunch tour.

There are about 70 full-time residents in Stehekin, reachable only by boat or float plane. It's also home to the North Cascade Stehekin Lodge, and the jump-off point for great hikes into the North Cascades.

Sharon Wootton is a free-lance writer who lives on Shaw Island.

The Olympian Copyright 2001

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