Photos courtesy of Tourism Victoria
Victoria's Inner Harbour is a destination for seaplane excursions from Seattle.

The Japanese garden is one of the many attractions at The Butchart Gardens.

The Empress Hotel is one of many places in Victoria that serve high tea.

High tea, high scenery

Victoria blends culture with sightseeing for all ages

MYKE FOLGER, FOR THE OLYMPIAN

A lot of Washingtonians might have visited Victoria, British Columbia, at one time or another. But getting to the heart of this city might be tougher than hopping a double-decker bus.

One sure way to get true insight to any city is to get one of the locals to show you around. They've been there and are no longer susceptible to the traps into which unwitting tourists often fall.

Meet Bjorn Freeman-Benson, a University of Washington graduate, doctor of computer science and software writer. With his wife, Kirsten, Freeman-Benson has lived and learned the ways of Victoria.

For seven years he was a professor at the University of Victoria -- U-Vic, as the locals call it. They lived between the university and one of the town's landmarks, The Empress Hotel. They got to know the restaurants, the shops, the hotels and the parks -- the real Victoria.

"One of the best restaurants there is called The Rebar," Freeman-Benson said. "It's modern vegetarian, and it's really good. Another is called the Harold Street Cafe. It's a really nice restaurant, not a cafe at all. It's the sort of place you would go for your anniversary."

There's also John's Place, a breakfast favorite where the eggs benedict are delicious and not for dieters. Or try Santiago's, a Spanish restaurant that has become one of Freeman-Benson's favorites.

And when it comes to tea, one might think The Empress Hotel. It's purported to be somewhat prestigious to have high tea there, as if after three sips, one would start talking like Thurston Howell, the millionaire from TV's "Gilligan's Island." Not so, says Freeman-Benson.

But Freeman-Benson has plenty of other suggestions.

"The one we liked is The Blethering Place," Freeman-Benson said. "There's afternoon tea, which is a huge meal of little sandwiches, pies and tarts and, of course, tea."

He said high tea at The Blethering Place is never crowded, the prices are reasonable and the attitude very realistic.

There's also the James Bay Teahouse. James Bay is very English, complete with pictures of the royal family and located within walking distance of the Parliament buildings.

At both The Blethering Place and the James Bay, tea is served in teapots covered in knitted cozies. Sandwiches and finger foods are served on multitiered trays. High tea typically consists of tea, petite sandwiches, tea scones, Devonshire cream, fruit, assorted cakes, sausage rolls, butter tarts and English trifles -- all for about $15.

Into the parks

But it doesn't stop there. Freeman-Benson was also well acquainted with the city's abundant parks. An avid orienteer, Freeman-Benson one day saw an ad in the daily paper about orienteering in Beacon Hill Park, one of the main parks in the city. Orienteering involves finding one's way along a course using a compass and map.

Shortly thereafter, he became a member of the Victorienteers, a club that uses relief maps of the parks to find hidden flags.

But you don't have to orienteer to have fun at the city's parks. There is plenty of walking, strolling and relaxing to be had.

Beacon Hill Park is in the center of the city; yet you can walk out along its rim and see the Strait of Juan de Fuca.

"You can stand by the edge and see America, see the ships going by," Freeman-Benson said.

To the west is Thetis Lake. At the north is Elk Lake Park, which encircles the lake. Then there's Mount Douglas Park, which is the highest point of Victoria. There are lots of trails to follow at Mount Douglas, and one can even drive up it and see the whole city from above. Freeman-Benson said a stroll or a drive through Mount Douglas Park is ideal fun for all ages.

Another great drive starts at Dallas Road, at the foot of Beacon Hill Park.

"If you follow that, it turns into Beach Drive, and that's the one that goes all around the waterfront of Victoria," Freeman-Benson said. "It's a nice drive."

Gardens and getaways

What would a visit to Victoria be without plunking down a stack of Canadian dollars to get into The Butchart Gardens? These gardens are truly beautiful, particularly when the Japanese Garden lights up with autumn colors.

The gardens are quite possibly the prettiest on the continent. But if you want to beat the crowd and skip the price ($13.25 during December), Freeman- Benson recommends visiting the gardens at the lieutenant governor's mansion. You don't even have to leave Victoria to see them. Visiting the gardens is free, and Freeman-Benson says they are just as lovely as what Butchart has to offer.

For a quick romantic getaway, Freeman-Benson suggests The Eagles Aerie. It's a restaurant/hotel run by a couple of Swiss hoteliers who know their stuff. There is also the Sooke Harbour House. Sooke Harbor is about 45 minutes from Victoria, but it has great food and great views.

"Movie stars stay there," Freeman-Benson said with a laugh. "It's on a spit that sticks out on the ocean, and you can watch the world go by."

The romantic getaway can start even before you get there, according to Freeman-Benson. Going to Victoria by seaplane tops the list.

Kenmore Air in Seattle is a popular seaplane company that offers trips from Seattle's Lake Union to Victoria's Inner Harbour. It takes about an hour, and there are about three flights a day. Kenmore also offers package deals with area hotels. Freeman-Benson and his wife like the seaplane rides so much that they bought one of their own.

"It's very quick, a great view, sometimes you see orcas," he said. "I'd suggest that as the way to go."

For the kids

But Victoria isn't just for the adults in the group. There are plenty of things for kids to do, too.

At Beacon Hill Park, there's a petting zoo. The Bug Zoo is fun and in the middle of town. There is also Miniature World, a museum featuring the biggest dollhouses of the 1880s and a working model of the Canadian railway. The Undersea Gardens, which are home to a vast collection of marine life, are sure to capture a kid's imagination.

But kids and adults alike are sure to enjoy the Royal British Columbia Museum. This is one of the largest museums on the West Coast. And both Freeman-Benson and the city's tourism bureau agree this time that a visit to Victoria should include a visit to this museum.

At the Royal B.C., there are dioramas of wilderness scenes, anthropology exhibits, native artifacts and displays focusing on resource extraction.

And during Christmastime, be sure to take a look at the Parliament buildings. They light up at night. When the buildings were first opened, their outline was illuminated by more than 3,300 light bulbs fixed along the corners of the walls. This feature contributed to the landmark status of the buildings.

Architect Francis Mawson Rattenbury designed the buildings, the Empress Hotel and the Crystal Garden behind the hotel.

The Olympian Copyright 2001

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