Port of Chelan County / Mike Barnhart
Snowshoeing, skiing and hiking are plentiful during winters in Stehekin, with solitude that can be found close to the small town.

Port of Chelan County / Mike Barnhart
Snowshoers gather around the fire after a moonlight winter walk.

Solitude by the lake

You can't drive to Stehekin, and that's part of the beauty

DAVE WORTMAN, FOR THE OLYMPIAN

On a crisp morning under a brilliant sun, Rick Rahn navigates our baby blue school bus-turned-hiker-shuttle over the narrow road winding deep into the Stehekin Valley.

With windows rattling and suspension bucking around every turn, we rumble past rushing streams, hillsides splashed with fall color, and rustic cabins nestled into the forest.

Among my seatmates are hikers loaded down with backpacks. Together, we eagerly press our faces to the windows, craning our necks to catch views of the thundering 300-foot Rainbow Falls and the parade of craggy summits that tower overhead. Plus, there's always the outside chance of spotting one of the many black bears that head down from the high country in fall in search of a quick prehibernation snack.

Rahn finds enjoyment in reciting an endless string of facts and stories about Stehekin, tempting visitors to jump off and explore this magnificent valley's nooks and crannies.

"I've been looking all my life for the ideal small town, and I've finally found it," noted Rahn. "Everyone deserves to experience a place like this."

Rustic outpost

Tucked deep into the folds of the Cascades at the north end of Lake Chelan, Stehekin is out of sight and still widely unknown even among many longtime Northwest residents. Hemmed in by 8,000-foot peaks and the 55-mile long Lake Chelan, the only way in or out is by boat or floatplane, creating the unique feeling that it's more backcountry outpost than town.

There's little doubt that through its isolation Stehekin remains an oddity. Here, schedules are frowned upon, and cooperation is a way of life among the valley's 80 permanent residents. Most residents make their living off the land, from a craft or by catering to visitors.

For those willing to make the journey on the boat "uplake" as the locals call the trip, Stehekin's rustic atmosphere and limitless hiking, snowshoeing, and skiing opportunities offer a slice of heaven for fall and winter outdoor enthusiasts.

Federally protected wilderness areas, the Lake Chelan National Recreation Area, and North Cascades National Park surround Stehekin, all strung together by hundreds of miles of trails along rivers, through thick woods and into high mountain meadows.

Once the wave of summer visitors has passed, fall and winter transform tiny Stehekin into a different world.

According to resident Randall Dinwiddie, fall and winter in the valley are seasons of "peace, solitude and beauty." As fall descends on the valley, colors of gold and red paint the mountainsides, and spawning kokanee salmon add splashes of vibrant red to the Stehekin River.

By mid-December, two to three feet of snow typically blanket the ground. Many come to Stehekin in winter to cross-country ski and snowshoe. And as you step off the boat at Stehekin's landing, the only sounds you may hear are the crunch of snow underfoot and the booming of distant avalanches tumbling from lofty peaks surrounding the town.

According to Nancy Holman, lead interpreter for the National Park Service office in town, "Stehekin is a very quiet and peaceful valley in the wintertime, offering a sense of solitude to those few folks making the journey here."

Miles of wandering

Once in Stehekin, you won't have to wander far to find some breathing room and welcome solitude, even close to town. National Park Service rangers regularly greet visitors arriving by boat, answering questions and providing directions. They'll be happy to help you find maps and transportation, along with programs and materials.

The Stehekin Valley is a wonderland for novice skiers and snowshoers, offering easy grades and minimal avalanche danger.

Activities include snowshoeing or skiing through scenic Buckner Orchard, one of the oldest apple orchards in the United States. The 300-foot Rainbow Falls makes a great short destination, as does the Imus Creek Trail. Skiers won't find regularly groomed tracks here -- the only other ski tracks you're likely to see are those left by residents going about their daily business.

For those feeling more ambitious, there are dozens of trails to choose from, including the 17-mile Lakeshore Trail, the Agnes Creek Trail or trails along the Stehekin River. If you'd rather stick to the valley floor, you're free to wander up the valley for miles along the road beyond the point where it's plowed. If you are venturing into the backcountry, be sure to check with National Park Service officials about avalanche conditions.

For more organized events, the North Cascades Stehekin Lodge offers delightful Saturday night moonlight snowshoe walks, which end with a warming cup of hot chocolate or spiced wine around a roaring bonfire. From January to March, the park service also offers Friday night educational programs at the lodge.

No matter which outing you choose, don't be surprised to encounter some of the area's abundant wildlife. During winter months, trumpeter swans and other waterfowl frequent Stehekin, as do deer and the occasional cougar.

Camping, lodges, comforts

The few amenities "downtown" Stehekin offers are clustered around the boat landing and conveniently cater to visitors. With the exception of a small convenience store in North Cascades Lodge, most close for fall and winter, so it's a good idea to arrive fully prepared with all the food and gear you'll need for your stay.

The North Cascades Lodge, located just a few steps from the boat landing, offers both rooms and a restaurant, but schedules are limited in fall and winter. The lodge offers both regular rooms and "housekeeping" units complete with kitchens, along with fall and winter packages that include transportation, lodging, breakfast, snowshoe rental, and guided tours. One other lodge, the Silver Bay Inn, is located farther up the valley and offers winter accommodations. There is also a small scattering of private cabins in the Valley for rent throughout the year.

If you're committed to roughing it even in fall and winter, there are several bus-accessible camps, particularly before the snow flies, scattered throughout the Stehekin Valley. Although campsites are generally available, it's a good idea to plan ahead by contacting the National Park Service visitor center in Stehekin.

The Olympian Copyright 2001

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