Gardner's perfects dining experience

STEVEN FASANO, FOR THE OLYMPIAN

Originally published August 10, 2001

OLYMPIA -- When I go to a restaurant, I am looking for a complete dining experience -- ambience, service and exceptional cuisine. I recently experienced all of that at Gardner's, not to mention a host that would literally give you the blouse off her back if you were too cold. Or, in one instance I witnessed, take an overly rambunctious toddler outside for a walk when his parent was too distracted.

Jane and Leon Longan are a double threat, co-owners and hostess and head chef, respectively, at Gardner's. Leon and his next-in-kitchen-command, Lorie Rains, create a unique cuisine that relies heavily on local foods, whether it is the local fresh blackberry garlic butter sauce in which they often saute salmon, or the marionberry cobbler, which soothes the soul as only true comfort food can.

On my most recent visit, we started with a rather good glass of Frazier '96 Merlot. Yes, we started with that even before the appetizer -- it had been a long day! Next we ravaged a plate of warm, creamy smoked salmon and artichoke hearts. The concoction provided an excellent contrast of warm and rich to the light garlic and butter crispness of the crustinis upon which we spread it.

Next came our dinner salads, with tossed local greens and the house vinaigrette with crumbled Gorgonzola cheese. The salad was served with piping-hot sourdough rolls with herbed butter, decorated with local, edible flower petals.

For the main course, my dining companions and I chose the specials of the evening: fillets of sturgeon and halibut prepared with a garlic, butter and roasted red pepper sauce, and a divinely tender serving of three lamb chops, which had been marinated in orange juice and red pepper reduction sauce, then sauteed in a cranberry-orange sauce tinged with the lightest touch of rosemary. I don't usually enjoy lamb, but in this case I wished the entree had been mine alone.

As an accompaniment to the main course, we opted for garlic mashed potatoes that had been piped onto a side dish and baked until just barely crisp on the exterior. What a delicate flavor this produced. And the roasted red pepper hollandaise sauce accompanying the steamed mixed vegetables was truly inspired.

Our new -- and I mean brand spanking new --waitress Heidi Cederholm then brought out the dessert tray, a cornucopia of made-from-scratch delights. Since my dining companions were too full to order desserts of their own, I had to settle on just one for dignity's sake. I chose the aforementioned wild marionberry cobbler, warmed and served with vanilla ice cream.

Lo and behold, I got to keep it all to myself! It must be my charming personality.

Steven Fasano is an Olympia resident who works in the insurance industry. The reviewer makes every effort to remain anonymous. Meals are paid for by The Olympian.

Gardner's Seafood & Pasta

Five forks: Excellent

- Location: 111 Thurston Ave. N.W., Olympia. 360-786-8466.

- Food: Excellent seafood using myriad local ingredients, including the seafood itself when in season.

- Value: Very good. Most entrees are between $16 and $22, not cheap but about 20 percent less than what comparable Seattle-area restaurants charge.

- Beverages: Everything from root beer floats to an excellent glass of port, with an ever-changing wine list.

- Service: Excellent, with hostess with the mostest Jane Longan watching every step and catering to every whim.

- Atmosphere: Very good. It's small, it's intimate, but it's still casual. Jane Longan's mother's garden provides fresh flowers in season, and pictures from local photographer Fred Shratt add to the ambience.

- Hours: 5-9 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday, although you will find them still open later many nights for the regulars who just don't want to leave.

- Reservations: Definitely recommended, especially around any important holiday. Valentine's Day can be booked up a year in advance.

- Credit cards: Visa, MasterCard and American Express.

- Smoking: Not a chance.

- Children: Nothing specific on the menu for them, but Jane Longan will always find something for them to like.

REVIEW GUIDE

Five forks: Excellent

Four forks: Very good

Three forks: Good

Two forks: Average

One fork: Fair

The Olympian Copyright 2001

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