Claim Jumper serves meals as big as Texas

STEVEN FASANO, FOR THE OLYMPIAN

Originally published August 31, 2001

TUKWILA -- Size makes the first impact at the Claim Jumper location in Tukwila. The entrance is large, the group of people waiting outside for tables is large, and the doggie bags people carry out are bigger than their heads!

If the reports are true (and I do believe they are) that Americans are super-sized, I think you can lay a fair amount of blame on the Claim Jumper chain. These people pride themselves on the sheer magnitude of their servings, whether it is the 6-inch by 6-inch square serving of fresh carrot cake or appetizers that can feed a petite family of four.

Since my lovely blonde dining companion and I had been there before, we knew we would have no room for an appetizer and the lunch we ordered. We went straight for the kill and ordered the awe-inspiring Ore Cart, a selection of rotisserie specialties. It includes barbecued chicken that falls off the bone, hickory-smoked baby back pork ribs, hickory-smoked and barbecue-basted beef back ribs and, as if that wasn't enough, braised spare ribs in CJ's original Red Ale and basted with Sweet Red Ale barbecue sauce.

Before digging into the main course, we were beset with a plethora of side dishes to savor -- there are 23 by my count. Three side dishes come with each meal. We chose cheese potato cakes, beefsteak tomato salad and wood-fired breadsticks.

The cheese potato cakes, served with herbed ranch salsa, literally melted in our mouths. The tomato salad was an unusual surprise, combining big slices of tomatoes, tear-inspiring hunks of red onions, herbed bread crumbs and mozzarella topped with cracked black pepper, fresh basil and balsamic vinaigrette. Last and least, the wood-fired breadsticks were a let-down in small portion size and overly delicate flavor.

Oh, but the wonderful meat. To me it satisfies a deep, almost primal, hunger. We didn't have bibs, so we covered ourselves in thick paper napkins and dove in. With greasy grins, we polished off the entire meal. And to think my companion said she wouldn't eat as much as I -- hah!

Our seating, next to the entrance, left something to be desired. Everyone leaving the dining area walked past our table and witnessed the barbecue clinging to our cheeks and stuck between our teeth. We started to feel a bit piggish.

But a primal voice raised inside me and proudly announced: "I am carnivore!" With lusty relish, we proceeded to wolf down a 36-square-inch piece of rich, moist carrot cake!

Steven Fasano is an Olympia resident who works in the insurance industry. The reviewer makes every effort to remain anonymous. Meals are paid for by The Olympian.

Claim Jumper

Three forks: Good

- Location: 5901 S. 180th St., Tukwila. 206-575-3918.

- Food: Very good. Simple but original American fare. Not stingy on quantity or freshness.

- Value: Good. Most main entrees you can split -- or at least you should. They range in price from $12.95 to $15.95.

- Beverages: A massive selection of beers and wines, with an equally impressive hard liquor list. Bottomless iced teas, sodas and lemonade for $2.25, as well as coffee.

- Service: Good. Fast to your table, but too darn many people helping you. The person who we considered to be our actual server was a bit distant.

- Atmosphere: Good. Big, comfortable booths and tables, Americana everywhere with a combination mining/outdoorsy feel.

- Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday; 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays.

- Reservations: Only if you bring a big group. If they are slammed, you get your own big pager to hold till your table is ready.

- Credit cards: Visa and MasterCard.

- Smoking: No, only the meat.

- For children: Most definitely. Portions here give new meaning to the phrase, "Their eyes were bigger than their stomachs."

REVIEW GUIDE

Five forks: Excellent

Four forks: Very good

Three forks: Good

Two forks: Average

One fork: Fair

The Olympian Copyright 2001

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