Tony Roma's has safe, satisfying fare

CODY WALKER, FOR THE OLYMPIAN

Originally published September 7, 2001

OLYMPIA -- A visit to Tony Roma's isn't likely to be life changing. You won't imagine yourself to be a Neanderthal hunter, hunched in a cave and tearing rib meat from mastodons.

But you might at least forget you're at a mall.

I'm no fan of food courts, so west Olympia's Westfield Shoppingtown Capital mall doesn't give me a culinary high. That being said, the mall does offer a few places where diners aren't asked to eat plastic-tasting food on plastic trays. Among those restaurants, Tony Roma's is one of the safer bets.

From its roots in North Miami, Fla., Tony Roma's has expanded to more than 225 locations on five continents.

The local Tony Roma's doesn't break the mold. The look is familiar: lots of solid wood tables and hunter-green booths. Only the Depression-era photos of Olympia give the restaurant a South Sound stamp.

I ordered the St. Louis rib sampler ($13.99 at lunch), an array of pork spare ribs topped with assorted sauces. The agreeable flavors ran together, for the most part. A scoop of coleslaw and cayenne-flavored fries completed the plate. Moist towelettes followed.

My friend tried the sausage sandwich ($6.99, with slaw and fries). It wasn't exactly bad, but it lacked personality and punch. Better results came in the form of the generously portioned side Caesar salad ($1.49) and the scrumptious brownie sundae ($5.49, served in an iron skillet).

The youngest member of our group chose, from the kids' menu, the " 'round the world pizza" ($4.99). To say the pizza's semi-burnt crust concerned him would be like saying the Florida election irregularities concerned Al Gore. To my surprise, he liked the kids' appetizer -- two carrot sticks, two celery sticks and gallon of ranch dressing.

The kids' meal ended with the inspired "Dirt Cup," a glob of chocolate pudding layered with crushed Oreos and gummy worms. The verdict was instant: "Dirt! Yummy!"

Which counts, now that I think about it, as a Neanderthal sentiment.

Cody Walker is a writer and teacher who divides his time between Olympia and Seattle. The reviewer makes every effort to remain anonymous. Meals are paid for by The Olympian.

Tony Roma's

Three forks: Good

- Location: 625 Black Lake Blvd. S.W., Olympia, 360-753-2911.

- Food: Average to good. Choices include flame-grilled ribs, BBQ chicken, steaks, salads and sandwiches. Crisp fries and decadent desserts.

- Value: Good. Discounts for children, seniors.

- Beverages: Full bar, soft drinks, juice, lemonade, iced tea, milk, hot tea, coffee.

- Service: Good. Lots of water refills, extra napkins.

- Atmosphere: Average-good. Piped-in music; comfy booths.

- Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday to Thursday; 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday.

- Reservations: No.

- Credit cards: Visa, MasterCard, Discover, American Express, Diners Club. No checks.

- Smoking: No.

- For children: Yes. An elaborate kids' menu.

REVIEW GUIDE

Five forks: Excellent

Four forks: Very good

Three forks: Good

Two forks: Average

One fork: Fair

The Olympian Copyright 2001

back to main Dining index