Farewell to an old friend, hearty 'hola' to a new one

BARBARA CONLEY, FOR THE OLYMPIAN

Originally published September 14, 2001

LACEY -- When my son was a young teen-ager with a ravenous appetite, the Prime Connection restaurant in Lacey was a favorite of ours. We always ordered the prime rib, and I can still see him smiling as he served us from the shared soup crock and salad bowl. We talked and laughed and ... oops, sentimental memories got the best of me. The point is that the Prime Connection has closed, and in its place is the Plaza Jalisco Mexican Restaurant.

Plaza Jalisco opened in the familiar building at the corner of Lacey Boulevard and Clearbrook in the Lacey Downs Plaza about a month ago.

Remodeling is planned for the future, but in the meantime the pastel wallpaper, country wood tables with spindle-back chairs and flowered cloth lampshades contrast oddly with the lively Latin beat of background music. A dark blue sombrero with silver stitching perched atop a lamp near the front desk provided a subtle hint of the transition that the menu makes perfectly clear.

Similar to its family of Plaza Jalisco restaurants in Tumwater, Chehalis and five other towns across Washington, the Lacey site offers typical Mexican fare and house specials. Prices range from $4.50 for a small order of cheese nachos to $12.95 for the New Jalisco Special, a saute of steak, shrimp, scallops and mushrooms seasoned with garlic and spices and served with rice, beans, tortillas and guacamole.

On the Sunday night when we visited, the special was a choice of one of three standard combination dinners, each served with rice and beans, for $5.95 instead of the usual $7.50-$7.95.

While we enjoyed a basket of chips and mildly spiced thick and chunky salsa, my husband glanced at the menu just long enough to find the only thing he ever orders in a Mexican restaurant: chicken enchiladas ($7.25). The entree came served with rice and beans smothered in melted cheese, and he proclaimed the meal "not bad," a compliment meaning it's as good as any other he's had.

I'm watching calories and knew this evening would challenge my diet. The New Jalisco Special was calling my name but I resisted, moving quickly to the ensaladas section. I was saved by the fajita salad ($7.95), which I ordered with fresh salsa instead of a standard dressing.

The salad was colorfully presented on a Plaza Jalisco monogrammed platter -- fresh iceberg lettuce layered with thick-sliced mushrooms, black olives, tomato wedges and avocado slices, topped with a generous serving of charcoal-broiled chicken and a dusting of Parmesan cheese. My hunger and resolve were both satisfied.

For dessert, I chose to read the calorie-free description of the sopapillas, deep-fried, crispy tortilla chips topped with honey, cinnamon, sugar, vanilla ice cream, whipped cream and Hershey's syrup. On the way out, I admired a serving of deep-fried ice cream with strawberry topping that a couple was sharing over lighthearted conversation -- it looked delicious and fun.

It occurred to me that sentimental memories are being made at Plaza Jalisco, too.

Barbara Conley is a part-time writer and frequent restaurant patron who lives and works in Olympia.

Plaza Jalisco

Three forks: Good

- Location: 5815 Lacey Blvd. S.E., Lacey. 360-459-1515.

- Food: Good. Selections include standard Mexican fare plus house specials.

- Value: Good. Prices range from $4.50 for a small order of cheese nachos to $12.95 for the New Jalisco Special.

- Beverages: Full service bar plus the usual.

- Service: Very good.

- Atmosphere: Casual family dining. Can be noisy. Separate bar area.

- Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays.

- Reservations: Accepted, not necessarily needed.

- Credit cards: Visa, MasterCard and American Express.

- Smoking: No.

- For children: Yes. For children ages 12 and younger: choice of tostada, taco, enchilada, tamale, mini burrito or mini pizza served with rice and beans for $3.50.

REVIEW GUIDE

Five forks: Excellent

Four forks: Very good

Three forks: Good

Two forks: Average

One fork: Fair

The Olympian Copyright 2001

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