Kinza Teriyaki serves pleasing bites, sights

CODY WALKER, FOR THE OLYMPIAN

Originally published October 5, 2001

LACEY -- On a recent visit to Kinza Teriyaki, I was asked if I wanted to watch the Mariners game. Why not? I thought. Soon Ichiro and company appeared on TV, while Asian woodwinds continued from the speakers.

The restaurant specializes in artful combinations. Witness the teriyaki and tempura ($9.99), a Mount Fuji-sized serving of chicken, beef, tempura and rice (two scoops). It's enough food to satisfy the hungriest of sluggers, and yet the flavors -- from the winningly charred chicken to the sweet beef -- remain delicate and distinct.

The tempura, too, is delightful: tasty bites of shrimp, carrot, zucchini, broccoli and onion.

Even the salad (crisp lettuce, shredded carrots, Thousand Island dressing) is better than you'd expect from an inexpensive teriyaki joint.

The restaurant also is prettier than you'd expect. Creams, mauves and tropical plants soften the boxlike space. Paper lanterns and shades abound, as do attractive Japanese prints.

Teriyaki dominates the menu (appearing in six variations and 11 combos), but other Japanese favorites also make appearances. Entrees include yakisoba, udon, donburi and fried rice; appetizers range from egg rolls to stir-fried vegetables to miso soup.

The miso soup ($1.45) features green onions and tofu in a thick, salty broth. The large bowl is one of the restaurant's many bargains (or, to cast the net more widely, one of the many bargains in The Little Prairie Center, whose lessees include, along with Kinza, a Dollar Store and a place simply called Cigarettes Cheaper).

The shrimp fried rice ($6.25) also is a bargain. Served on a foot-and-a-half-wide platter, it could easily feed two. The best thing about the fried rice is the choice of shrimp. Rather than the usual minuscule bay variety, the Kinza chefs offer cut-up pieces of the big boys. Then they bulk up the dish with peas, carrots, corn, eggs and onions.

Kinza has 12 comfortable wood tables, but, on my two visits, I saw more takeout business than sit-down dining. In a way it's a shame. Those in a hurry miss the friendly servers and the baseball pantomime.

Did I mention that Ichiro hit a home run during my second visit? Had I been drinking sake or Sapporo, I would have raised a glass in salute.

Cody Walker is a writer and teacher who divides his time between Olympia and Seattle. The reviewer makes every effort to remain anonymous. Meals are paid for by The Olympian.

Kinza Teriyaki

Three forks: Good

- Location: 4820 Yelm Highway, Lacey. 360-413-1200.

- Food: Good. Teriyaki choices include chicken, pork, beef and beef ribs. Tempura and fried rice are standouts.

- Value: Good. Entrees average about $6; nothing costs more than $10. Lunch specials cost about $5 and are available from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Monday to Friday.

- Beverages: Beer, wine, sake, soft drinks, Snapple, milk, iced tea, coffee, tea.

- Service: Good. Friendly and fast. Lots of water refills.

- Atmosphere: Average to good. Ceiling fans and attractive hanging lights.

- Hours: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday to Saturday; 4:30 to 8:30 p.m. Sunday.

- Reservations: Not necessary. Takeout available.

- Credit cards: Visa and MasterCard. Personal checks accepted.

- Smoking: No.

- For children: Yes. A children's menu includes corn dogs and chicken nuggets.

REVIEW GUIDE

Five forks: Excellent

Four forks: Very good

Three forks: Good

Two forks: Average

One fork: Fair

The Olympian Copyright 2001

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