Enjoy simple comfort food at Ranch Kitchen

BARBARA CONLEY, FOR THE OLYMPIAN

Originally published October 19, 2001

If you've been craving a return to simpler times, the Ranch Kitchen may be just the ticket. Longtime South Sound residents may remember the original roadside cafe of the same name -- it's open again under new ownership.

The Ranch Kitchen is nestled in the trees just off Highway 8 near Summit Lake and looks very much as I remember it from a visit in the early 1970s. Rough wood paneling and window frames set a casual, ranch-like atmosphere sparsely accented by western pictures, horse bridles, a cowboy-boot planter and various other knickknacks.

It's not fancy, but it is friendly and comfortable.

Dinner entree choices include New York steak (10 ounces for $12.95), pot roast ($10.95), chicken fried steak ($8.95), hamburger steak ($7.95) and fried chicken ($8.95). Each selection comes with "All the Fixins," meaning a choice of soup or salad, choice of rice, baked potato, mashed potatoes or french fries, the vegetable of the day, and ranch toast.

My dinner partner chose the meatloaf ($7.95) and I ordered pork chops ($8.95) and a cup of 50-cent coffee.

The coffee arrived first -- it was fresh, hot and flavorful, a good value. Our salads arrived next, a combination of lettuce, mushrooms, tomatoes and croutons. My companion's main dish contained a large slice of meatloaf and mashed potatoes covered in gravy.

The gravy, usually banished to my forbidden food list, looked so good that I begged a taste. I was not disappointed, and I understand the meatloaf was good, too. I also enjoyed my grilled pork chops. Both meals came with a mixture of peas and carrots as well as grilled toast.

The serving sizes were fair and neatly presented without any additional embellishment.

The Ranch Kitchen is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner Wednesdays through Sundays (closed Monday and Tuesdays). Breakfast is served all day and choices include steak and eggs ($9.95), two eggs with hash browns and toast or biscuits ($6.25), as well as assorted pancakes and french toast.

Lunch options include a variety of sandwiches and burgers plus a choice of fries, potato salad or soup ($6.95-$7.95). When you visit, plan to save room for a piece of homemade cobbler.

To reach the Ranch Kitchen from Olympia, head toward Aberdeen on Highway 8. Take a left on Kennedy Creek Road Southwest, approximately 2 miles past the Summit Lake Grocery Store at mile marker 16. If you miss Kennedy Creek Road, you can turn around at the main Summit Lake exit about a mile and half down the highway. Go soon, and you'll have the added bonus of seeing the Black Hills festooned in fall colors.

Barb Conley is a part-time writer and frequent restaurant patron who lives and works in Olympia.

Ranch Kitchen

Two forks: Average

- Location: 10841 Kennedy Creek Road S.W., Olympia. 360-866-1503.

- Food: Good. Home-style dinner entrees such as pot roast, meatloaf and chicken fried steak. Lunch offers various hamburgers and sandwiches. Breakfast is served all day.

- Value: Good. Dinner prices range from $7.95 for hamburger steak to $12.95 for a 10-ounce New York steak. Lunch offerings range from $6.95 to $7.95. Breakfast prices range from $6.25 for two eggs, hash browns and toast to $9.95 for steak and eggs.

- Beverages: Coffee, tea, and soft drinks. They have applied for a liquor license.

- Service: Adequate and friendly.

- Atmosphere: Casual, simple dining in a ranch setting.

- Hours: 7 a.m. to 8 p.m. Wednesday, Thursday and Sunday, 7 a.m. to 9 p.m. Friday and Saturday.

- Reservations: Accepted, not necessarily needed.

- Credit cards: Visa, MasterCard and American Express.

- Smoking: No.

- For children: Yes.

REVIEW GUIDE

Five forks: Excellent

Four forks: Very good

Three forks: Good

Two forks: Average

One fork: Fair

The Olympian Copyright 2001

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