Wine and dine your date at elegant Victoria's

STEVEN FASANO, FOR THE OLYMPIAN

Originally published October 26, 2001

UNION -- In search of a romantic dinner location out of the area, my date and I set out for the tiny but picturesque town of Union on Hood Canal. We had been told that Victoria's at Robinhood has been a truly fine dining experience for years.

We were seated by Corinne Caldwell, who informed us that she and her husband, Blake Caldwell, had purchased the restaurant six weeks previously. Concerned about the change, I asked about Blake's experience and was relieved to find out that Victoria's had been his first chef position straight out of culinary school. He then proceeded to Andaluca in Seattle and several other restaurants before returning to purchase Victoria's for himself.

A bit chagrined to find the menu strictly a la carte, my date and I nonetheless started with a single Dungeness crab cake with citrus-cilantro aioli and marionberry coulis. The presentation was fantastic, and the cake was absolutely stuffed with fresh crab, but the portion was disappointingly small. We paired the crab with a chilled bottle of '00 Washington Hills Gewurztraminer, a combination I highly recommend.

We both proceeded to order one of the stylized salads. Mine was made of organic local mixed greens with huckleberry vinaigrette, toasted hazelnuts and a mild curado cheese, which tied it all together. My lovely date chose the Baby Romaine salad, with pungent Stilton blue cheese dressing, and an unusual julienne of smoked pepper bacon, which was a strong partner to the Stilton.

It was quite difficult to choose an entree with so many tantalizing options: ribs, steak, salmon or scallops and more. We ended up sharing both meals, but I must admit she just sampled mine, and I helped myself generously to hers. But how can you blame me? She chose the grilled salmon with lemon-thyme butter and herb breadcrumbs. It was divinely flavorful and just flaky enough. I tore into my grilled lemon-rosemary loin chop, which was succulent and tender, topped with an unusually smooth Calvados applesauce.

As a counterpoint to our main courses I chose the mashed potatoes with Toscano cheese and an incredibly flavorful chive oil. I kept leaving my entree to dredge another forkful of mashed potatoes through the oil. Even after I was full it pulled me back.

For dessert, my date chose a refreshing lemon-rosemary sorbet, which was quite delicate. I went for the Belgian chocolate cake, which was closer to a cheesecake and thus pleased me greatly. But alas, perhaps it was my companion and the surroundings filling me up with romance, for I could not finish my dessert!

Steven Fasano is an Olympia resident who works in the insurance industry. The reviewer makes every effort to remain anonymous. Meals are paid for by The Olympian.

Victoria's

Four forks: Very good

- Location: 6790 East state Route 106, Union. 360-898-4400

- Food: Excellent. Imaginatively prepared and deliciously presented dishes with local seafood, meat from Eastern Washington and local produce and herbs.

- Value: Good. I have never been a fan of a strict a la carte menu. Main courses range from $14-$27, but when you add on a salad for around $5 and a side dish for another $5, it starts to add up.

- Beverages: A modest but well-selected wine list. And surprisingly a martini selection to rival some big-city bars. Sodas, tea and coffee as well.

- Service: Very good. The only thing that kept this restaurant from receiving an excellent was a busboy who had a tendency to slap plates down and whisk them away without asking.

- Atmosphere: Good. I wish we could have seen the canal from where we were seated, but by the time we arrived, dusk would have removed the view anyway.

- Hours: 5 to 9 p.m. Wednesday and Thursday, 5 to 10 p.m. Friday through Sunday.

- Reservations: They are a good idea, as the locals tend to flock here if the out-of-towners don't make reservations first.

- Credit cards: Visa and MasterCard.

- Smoking: No.

- For children: Yes. The chef is willing to work his magic on meals for children as well.

REVIEW GUIDE

Five forks: Excellent

Four forks: Very good

Three forks: Good

Two forks: Average

One fork: Fair

The Olympian Copyright 2001

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