Rustica specializes in simple Italian fare

STEVEN FASANO, FOR THE OLYMPIAN

Originally published November 23, 2001

Due to the sad state of affairs regarding Italian food in the Lacey and Olympia area, most of the people I know go as far north as Seattle to satisfy their cravings. Thankfully a few years ago a family member of mine heard of this little place that's easy to miss on Sixth Avenue in Lacey.

Recently I went there with a date who gets cravings for their sausage and ground beef lasagna. The last two times she had been there they had been out, and she had to make due with an excellent manicotti. But this time, planning ahead, she called and made sure it was available.

We were seated in this small restaurant immediately, and our inquisitive 4-year-old companion was drawn like a magnet to the fountain in the corner. It served as an excellent source of white noise, so that even when the restaurant was getting busy we could converse without having to raise our voices.

Having a 4-year-old with us who was easily sated by the fresh Italian bread and butter served before all entrees, we skipped the appetizers, although my date loves the clams drenched in butter and garlic, and went straight to the main course.

She selected the aforementioned lasagna, and I had the Spaghetti Amatriciana, which is a specialty of the chef's. We all enjoyed the rather simple iceberg lettuce salads with tomatoes, cucumbers and, as their only paean to Italian cuisine, olives. The lasagna, although hot upon arrival, did not quite have its mantle of cheese bubbling. But my spaghetti, with its cured and seasoned Italian pork, was wonderful. It tasted as if the chef had let the pork bake with the tomato and garlic sauce, giving its flavor an exquisite depth.

Unfortunately as our meal progressed, the attention we received from our waitress waned. We found this surprising in such a small restaurant where she had only half the occupied tables. She did make sure that the 4-year-old's entree choice of mozzarella cheese bread dripping with butter was served not with ours, but about 5 minutes later and with some blackened edges.

Deciding that the traditional spumoni ice cream would not satisfy our sweet tooths after such a warm and satisfying meal, we visited the fountain one last time and took our leave with our leftovers. I was already anticipating my co-workers asking where my wonderful-smelling lunch of leftovers came from.

Steven Fasano is an Olympia resident who works in the insurance industry. The reviewer makes every effort to remain anonymous. Meals are paid for by The Olympian.

Rustica Ristorante Italiano

Three forks: Good

- Location: 4315 Sixth Ave. S.E., Lacey, WA 98503, 360-456-2243.

- Food: Good. Traditional Italian cuisine. Simply prepared pasta and seafood dishes are the specialty here.

- Value: Good. Our entrees were just below $10 each, with seafood in the $12-$15 range.

- Beverages: San Pellegrina (Italian carbonated lemonade), tea, espresso (not working while we were there) and soda.

- Service: Average. Our server was attentive at first and then drifted off almost completely.

- Atmosphere: Good. We all enjoyed the fountain's effect, and greenery and decor were well used to soften the small feel of this location.

- Hours: Lunch served from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Monday-Friday, dinner served from 5 to 9 p.m. Monday-Thursday and from 5 to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday.

- Reservations: Typically not needed for dinner, but if you want something you've grown fond of, you might want to call ahead like we did.

- Credit cards: Visa and MasterCard.

- Smoking: No.

- For children: Yes, they have a children's menu, which should cater to most simple tastes.

REVIEW GUIDE

Five forks: Excellent

Four forks: Very good

Three forks: Good

Two forks: Average

One fork: Fair

The Olympian Copyright 2001

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