Super Wok's strength is its many options

CODY WALKER, FOR THE OLYMPIAN

Originally published November 30, 2001

Differing from most teriyaki restaurants, Super Wok offers as much Chinese as Japanese fare.

LACEY -- You'd be forgiven for craving a Pepsi at Super Wok. The logo of Britney Spears' favorite beverage is emblazoned atop a soda fountain, on the face of a large clock and front and center on the menu board.

There's not a whole lot else to gaze upon at the recently opened teriyaki restaurant. A seaside poster hangs behind the cash register; a few mirrors and red shades add light and color. But it's a Spartan space.

The focus then turns to the food. Differing from most teriyaki restaurants, Super Wok offers as much Chinese as Japanese fare. All the expected teriyaki and tempura options are available, but owner Chin Yang's menu also lists items such as Mongolian beef and General Tao's chicken. Dessert is ginger or green tea ice cream -- good in any language.

Somehow avoiding the omnipresent Pepsi lures, we settled in with alternate soft drinks and egg drop soup ($1.50). The vegetable-rich soup seemed a sign of good things to come; less promising were the over-fried egg rolls ($1.25 each).

Our first entree, the prawn tempura ($7.95), could have served as an appetizer for two. A half-dozen hearty prawns stood like soldiers on sticks. When the dipping was over, only the sticks remained.

We also attacked the teriyaki chicken and broccoli beef combination ($7.95). The teriyaki consisted of tender slices of charbroiled chicken topped with a sweet sauce. This was terrific teriyaki, without a bum piece in the bunch.

The broccoli beef arrived a little under-seasoned, but it wasn't anything a few splashes of soy sauce couldn't fix. Plus, it came with carrots and two generous scoops of rice.

Super Wok also offers yakisoba, fried rice and a gyoza plate. The staff is incredibly welcoming, and customers can call ahead for takeout orders.

One thing to avoid: breathing on your walk to the bathroom. The route takes you past the nail salon next door, and the chemical fumes are enough to make you rush to a phone and give Tom Ridge a call.

Of course, if you survive the trip and make it back to Super Wok, you can enjoy a refreshing Pepsi. The soft drink has been around since 1898; prior to that, it was known as Brad's Drink.

Ten bucks says Britney doesn't know that.

Cody Walker is a writer and teacher who divides his time between Olympia and Seattle. The reviewer makes every effort to remain anonymous. Meals are paid for by The Olympian.

Super Wok

Two forks: Average

- Location: 4045 Martin Way, Lacey, 360-455-9199.

- Food: Good. A variety of teriyaki and Chinese choices, including Kung Pao chicken and broccoli beef. The chicken teriyaki is noteworthy.

- Value: Average to good. Most entrees cost between $6 and $8.

- Beverages: Soft drinks, Snapple, iced tea, hot tea, coffee.

- Service: Good. A friendly staff.

- Atmosphere: Fair to average. Ten tables; nondescript decor.

- Hours: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday to Friday; 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. Saturday.

- Reservations: No. Call ahead for takeout orders.

- Credit cards: All major cards.

- Smoking: No.

- For children: Yes. High chairs available.

REVIEW GUIDE

Five forks: Excellent

Four forks: Very good

Three forks: Good

Two forks: Average

One fork: Fair

The Olympian Copyright 2001

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