Flavors of Northwest, Asia mingle at Xinh's

SARAH SCOTT, FOR THE OLYMPIAN

Originally published December 7, 2001

SHELTON -- A lot of shuck. No jive. Unless you count the Louis Armstrong playing faintly over the speakers. As for the shuck, Xinh's Clam & Oyster House in downtown Shelton is a haven for mollusk lovers.

The menu lists four kinds of half-shell oysters as appetizers, although only Kumomotos were available on a recent visit. The small, locally grown critters had a delicate, clean flavor. Expecting to share a half dozen ($4.95), we were served nine. My two companions had enjoyed similar bounties on earlier visits. Owner/chef Xinh T. Dwelley considers herself "a great cook but a lousy counter."

A beef, chicken and vegetarian entree are on the menu, but shellfish and seafood do all the star turns here, strutted out in Asian garb.

We opted for three entree specials: Mussels in tamarind sauce ($13.95), mussels in an herb-garlic-wine-butter sauce ($13.95) and seafood fettuccine ($16.95). Memorable entrees on previous visits include steamed Manila clams in black bean sauce and the popular Xinh's Hot and Spicy Seafood Soup, a dish brimming with everything from calamari to catfish, served over rice noodles ($16.95). Both are from the standard menu.

Each of our entrees came with perfect timing, in steaming bowls along with smaller bowls for emptied shells. Jasmine rice accompanied both mussel dishes. The herb-garlic-wine-butter concoction complemented the mussels. A dish done well, but with no surprises.

On the other mussel entree, the unusual sweet-spiciness of the tamarind sauce made a terrific match for the mussels' briny richness.

The seafood fettuccine was hands-down the best I've had. The vast bowl held cooked-just-right prawns, mussels and clams in a creamy marinara broth sharped by cilantro and adorned in star style with carrot stick plumes. The contents provided enough for that meal and two back at home.

The wine list is full enough to offer some bottles and by-the-glass choices beyond the usual. Prices are what they are elsewhere in South Sound, a bit lower in some cases.

I felt duty-bound to try dessert and chose a lemon mousse minus its whipped cream topping. The mousse had the satisfying tartness of fresh lemons, counterbalanced by coconut pirouettes served alongside. Its $2.95 price tag was a treat, too. Other desserts include raspberry cheesecake, chocolate mousse and four kinds of Olympic Mountain ice cream, another of Shelton's epicurean gems. The coffee ordered with dessert was Tully's ($1.25), and repeated refills came our way unasked.

On this visit as on previous ones, service was amiable and alert. As before, Dwelley emerged to stop at every table and make sure her culinary namesake didn't disappoint.

Sarah Scott is a free-lance writer who lives in Olympia. The reviewer makes every effort to remain anonymous. Meals are paid for by The Olympian.

Xinh's Clam & Oyster House

Four forks: Very good

- Location: 221 W. Railroad Ave., Suite D, Shelton, 360-427-8709.

- Hours: 5-9 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday.

- Food: Excellent. Fresh shellfish and seafood with an Asian twist is the specialty. Well worth the drive from Olympia.

- Value: Excellent. Entrees reasonably priced. Desserts and coffee a downright bargain.

- Beverages: Beer and wine.

- Service: Attentive, professional and cheerful. Anticipated our requests before we made them.

- Atmosphere: Pleasant, relaxing colors and soft lighting. A little too spread out to lend any sense of elegance, but hey, what's elegant about slurping oysters anyway?

- Reservations: Recommended, especially on weekend nights.

- Method of payment: Checks, Visa, MasterCard.

- Smoking: No.

- Accommodations: With everything on one level, the restaurant seemed to be wheelchair accessible, although the restrooms are a bit out of the way. No children's menu, but the restaurant will do half portions or bring an additional plate. High chairs and children's seats are available, but the food flavors could be too adult for many kids' palates.

REVIEW GUIDE

Five forks: Excellent

Four forks: Very good

Three forks: Good

Two forks: Average

One fork: Fair

The Olympian Copyright 2001

back to main Dining Reviews index