FareStart's pleasures extend beyond food

CODY WALKER, FOR THE OLYMPIAN

Originally published December 28, 2001

"Tell me what you eat," wrote Anthelme Brillat-Savarin, "and I will tell you what you are."

I'd prove a difficult case for the French gourmand; after reviewing 120 restaurants (from budget buffets to six-course sit-downs), I've eaten a bit of everything. But my goal this week was not to perplex the father of food critics; rather, it was to find an appropriate way to conclude my five-year tenure.

The approach of the holidays helped. I'd always been curious about Seattle's FareStart, a restaurant that provides job training and placement in the food services industry for homeless men and women. Wouldn't it be in the spirit of the season to direct a bit of the newspaper's money in this direction?

As it turned out, my lunch visit became less about charity and more about what Brillat-Savarin called "the pleasures of the table." A friend and I lingered over a perfectly cooked sirloin steak sandwich, a mashed-potato-stuffed portobello mushroom, a slice of chocolate torte and two glasses of warm apple cider, complete with cinnamon sticks.

Everything was to our taste. The stuffed portobello smacked of high-end comfort food; the torte was richer than Katie Couric.

A soup-and-salad bar offered additional treats: homemade croutons, fresh garlic bread and navy bean soup that would make the admirals proud. (As Brillat-Savarin said, "We prefer things which have a pleasant taste to those which lack this quality.")

I saw several apparently homeless men enjoying quiet lunches; the staff treated them with a kind of respect that's almost never witnessed, especially in restaurants with soft lights and white tablecloths. A picture board of recent FareStart graduates testifies to the success of the restaurant's mission.

Besides the weekday lunch offerings, FareStart opens its doors every Thursday evening for Guest Chef night. For $16.95, diners can experience a three-course meal overseen by one of Seattle's high-hatted celebrities. A recipe collection, "Savoring Seattle," is available for sale and includes favorites from the Herbfarm, Rover's and the Dahlia Lounge.

So, that's it. Thanks for reading over the years. I hope the new year brings pleasures of all sorts, including pleasures of the table. A final story, in that spirit:

"I was in the drawing room, enjoying my dinner," said Brillat-Savarin, beginning an anecdote.

"What!" interrupted his friend. "Eating dinner in a drawing room?"

"I must beg you to observe, monsieur," explained the great gastronome, "that I did not say I was eating my dinner, but enjoying it. I had dined an hour before."

Cody Walker is a writer and teacher who divides his time between Olympia and Seattle. The reviewer makes every effort to remain anonymous. Meals are paid for by The Olympian.

FareStart

Four forks: Very good

- Location: 1902 Second Ave., Seattle, 206-443-1233, www.farestart.org.

- Food: Very good. Lunch selections include stuffed portobello mushrooms, rosemary roasted chicken, salmon burgers and a soup-and-salad bar. Thursday dinners reflect the interests of the guest chefs.

- Value: Very good. Lunch entrees average about $6. Thursday's guest chef meals are $16.95.

- Beverages: Soft drinks, juice, iced tea, warm cider, herbal tea, coffee.

- Service: Very good. Our attentive (and budget-minded) server directed us away from the menu's more expensive salad choices and toward the soup-and-salad bar (only $2 with entree).

- Atmosphere: Very good. A lovely setting, with a magenta ceiling, soft lights and black-and-white photos of the many guest chefs.

- Hours: Lunch served 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Monday-Friday; dinner from 5 to 9 p.m. Thursday.

- Reservations: Recommended for the Thursday night dinners.

- Credit cards: All major cards.

- Smoking: No.

- For children: Yes. Everyone's welcome.

REVIEW GUIDE

Five forks: Excellent

Four forks: Very good

Three forks: Good

Two forks: Average

One fork: Fair

The Olympian Copyright 2001

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