Taste the flavors of Asia at Chopsticks

SARAH SCOTT, FOR THE OLYMPIAN

Originally published February 1, 2002

Chopsticks brings Olympia a slurp closer to Asia.

The noodle house on Fifth Avenue between Columbia Street and Capitol Way is owned by Lacey native Stacey Quach and her mother, Lien Nhan. On the menu is what amounts to a mission statement: "... committed to serving the freshest Asian dishes ..."

Come inside to the bustle and chatter that accompany quick service and happy diners. Still, you can hear soothing classical music in the background. Maize-colored walls with burnt orange accents, diffuse light from big paper globes and comfortable, stylish seats create a welcoming atmosphere. A galvanized metal eating bar gives the single room a contemporary flair. As a courtesy, newspapers and magazines as diverse as Architectural Digest and Car and Driver are available.

But I didn't go there to read.

My two friends and I shared an appetizer of Garden Fresh Spring Rolls ($4). The menu description is curious on this one: "A veggie masterpiece. Shrimp and pork ..." We made it a little closer to its billing by asking that the pork be omitted. Huge rolls came stuffed with bean sprouts and rice noodles accented by fresh mint. Even better: the Hoi Sin dipping sauce topped by freshly ground peanuts.

At a noodle house, you gotta have noodles, right? I ordered Phnom Penh Soup Noodles ($7). This Cambodian specialty featured glass noodles in a clear broth with prawns, squid, pork (deleted on request again) and fish balls. Puffy shrimp toast floated on top. The green onions mentioned on the menu won at hide and seek, but the cilantro-laced dish mixed satisfying tastes and textures nonetheless. A miso-laden broth gave me the sense, just as a cup of miso soup always does, that it's doing all manner of good things to my insides.

One co-eater ordered Glass Noodles ($7) that invoked raves: sauteed beef and shiitake mushrooms stir-fried with green onions, sesame seeds and seasoned sesame oil. She loved the strong flavors that didn't smother any individual ingredient.

My other friend ordered Phad Thai ($7), giving high yums to the Chopsticks version of this rice noodle stir-fry. Shrimp, chicken, bean sprouts and onions came bathed in a light sauce. The yums would've been louder without a slight ketchup taste.

True to its name, you need to ask for a fork at Chopsticks if that's what you prefer. Tea is served as soon as you're seated, even on one occasion when I was there only for takeout. A tea bag also was tucked in my to-go order, a nice touch.

The pan-Asian menu truly spans the continent: Chinese Won Ton noodle soup and Hong Kong style noodle stir-fry join with dishes from Taiwan, Korea, Thailand and Cambodia. Vegetarian versions are plentiful.

Our waiters on this night (and they were legion) kept us well attended with only a minor hitch. We had to ask for napkins and chopsticks when our appetizer arrived right away, but the requested items were served with profuse apologies. This particular Monday night, one of the pleasant young men told us, had turned unexpectedly busy. At no time did we feel rushed.

For dessert, Chopsticks offers iced lychee fruit and iced longan fruit served whole. But the main dessert is drawn with a straw: bubble tea ($3/$3.49). Or boba, as it's called in southern California where those bubbles are the buzz.

Bubble tea is a drink you can sink your teeth into. Big, fat, dark tapioca noodles sit at the bottom of a flavored liquid. A big, fat straw comes with it. First you drink, then you chew.

Bubble tea took its time coming to Olympia, maybe because we already have our fill of cold liquid anytime we walk outside, look up and open our mouths. The three of us, all boba virgins at the time, declared it too sweet for taste buds past 20. (I later tasted an R-rated chai-flavored version in Pasadena that I liked.) Turns out you can order bubble tea at Chopsticks without all that sugar. It comes in a lengthy list of flavors.

To my knowledge, bubble tea can be found only one other place locally, Iron Horse espresso shop. By all means, drink this adventure and form your own opinion.

And definitely give Chopsticks a try. I'm coming back for the noodle salads when the weather warms. Or maybe before August.

Sarah Scott is a free-lance writer who also works for the state House of Representatives. The reviewer makes every effort to remain anonymous. Meals are paid for by The Olympian.

REVIEW GUIDE

Five forks: Excellent

Four forks: Very good

Three forks: Good

Two forks: Average

One fork: Fair

Chopsticks: FOUR FORKS

- Location: 119 Fifth Ave. S.W., downtown Olympia. 360-596-9332.

- Hours: 11 a.m.-8 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Friday, noon-9 p.m. Saturday, closed Sunday.

- Food: Fresh, healthful Asian offerings. Noodles (duh) are the specialty. Lots of vegetarian options. Children's portions on request.

- Value: Inexpensive. The mmmm-to-$$$$$ ratio is excellent.

- Beverages: Eat your fill of bubble tea. Coffee, tea, sodas and a fresh soybean drink are available, but no beer or wine yet.

- Service: Prompt and friendly.

- Atmosphere: Bustling but pleasant. Clever design touches.

- Reservations: No.

- Method of payment: Visa, MasterCard.

- Smoking: No.

- Accommodations: A baby changing station in the women's restroom is a thoughtful touch. (Men are welcome there too, as long as they are toting people in diapers.)

The Olympian Copyright 2002

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