Food is hit or miss at The Mark

STEVEN FASANO, FOR THE OLYMPIAN

Originally published February 15, 2002

I wrote a scathing review about a meal my fiancee and I suffered through at The Mark in downtown Olympia several weeks ago.

There was a lot of hype around town about this "new concept" restaurant -- it was the place to go for drinks and appetizers, and everyone was checking it out.

Wanting to give them a second chance since they were so new, we returned at a later date to see if I should revise my initial opinion.

During our first visit, the staff was absolutely overwhelmed and apparently extremely undertrained as well. Unfortunately, the same could be said for the very inconsistent cuisine, with pasta ranging from al dente to very overcooked in one dish, and multiple ingredients just plain missing from another.

During our second visit, which was approximately three weeks later, the same blues pianist was playing in the front corner, but we were actually greeted at the door and led to a table. We enjoyed prompt and courteous service for the rest of the evening.

Our appetizer of goat cheese and piorni peppers was quite different, as the peppers had the slimy consistency of squid and dripped oily water. This was unfortunate, as the peppers themselves had an excellent flavor.

I enjoyed a cranberry cosmopolitan that had a nice bite to it, but my fiancee did not enjoy the severe metallic taste of the ice water. We chose to split the Oregon grown "flat iron" steak, which, like the accompanying fried potatoes, was seasoned with rosemary. Fortunately for me, requesting that it be prepared rare was the right choice. This cut of meat was wonderfully tender and flavorful.

To my dismay, The Mark does not even have one dessert item on the menu.

Perhaps The Mark is more suited to the crowd in search of a new "concept" restaurant, and those who want a tasty cocktail along with some appetizers straining to be avant-garde. But to me, The Mark will remain hit or miss.

REVIEW GUIDE

Five forks: Excellent

Four forks: Very good

Three forks: Good

Two forks: Average

One fork: Fair

The Mark: TWO FORKS

- Address: 407 Columbia Ave., Olympia. 360-754-4414.

- Food: Fair. Consistency is rather haphazard, though an attempt to be unique is clearly being made.

- Value: Good. Entrees are quite reasonable for what they are trying to be. Most are below $10.

- Beverages: Good. Some unique cocktails and a number of decent brews, plus a modest wine list. Kemper sodas available as well, plus coffee.

- Service: Fair. The owner's inexperience in the restaurant field shows clearly, as does that of her wait staff, but is improving weekly.

- Atmosphere: Fair to poor. The Mark seems to be searching for itself. With the pictures in the bar area featuring a woman staring back at you through various "headgears," and the overall dark atmosphere, it felt more like a club with issues than a restaurant after a specific clientele.

- Hours: 5 p.m.-1 a.m. seven days a week.

- Reservations: No.

- Credit cards: MasterCard and Visa.

The Olympian Copyright 2002

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