Get to know charming Trinacria

SARAH SCOTT, FOR THE OLYMPIAN

Originally published Friday, March 1, 2002

If Olympia has a cult restaurant, the cozy place with steamed-up windows next to the tattoo parlor is it. You foodies already know I'm talking about Trinacria.

Trinacria (pronounced Tree-NAH-cree-ah) lies low. People live in Olympia for years and never hear of it.

Nonetheless, the excellent Sicilian restaurant on Capitol Way has been in business since 1989.

Chef Eugenio Aliotta owns the restaurant with his wife, Shelia Cannon, who also works there. His menu changes little, although daily specials are more varied than in early years.

Aliotta's hometown is Catania, Sicily. That's worth noting because, while the recipes on the menu are his creations, he traces them to his Sicilian heritage. The ancient name for this autonomous region of Italy is -- you guessed it -- Trinacria. Sicilians, Eugenio says, eat more red sauce, more pasta and more olive oil than other Italians.

He of the gray ponytail and lively demeanor comes across as the culinary equivalent of a filmmaking auteur, a director whose singular stamp is on everything. (I asked the server if a familiar dish could have more broccoli this time. She said she'd have to check with Aliotta because "He's very particular." I'm happy to report he approved.)

Aliotta sightings are not unusual at the Olympia Farmers Market and the food co-op as he shops for fresh ingredients for that day's offerings.

On a recent night two friends and I came in from the cold for dinner. Trinacria is at its most charming this time of year -- those steamed-up windows, the small room made intimate by soft lights and a feeling of huddled warmth.

The quirky decor includes oil paintings collected by his family offset by turquoise corrugated fiberglass columns. Propped on an easel is a crucifixion scene with a woman in place of Jesus. Such things assure me that, when I step into Trinacria, I'm still in Olympia, not Kansas.

For an appetizer, we split the Antipasto Siciliano ($4.95), a nice array of coppa (thinly sliced ham), asiago cheese, bread sticks and kalamata olives, just right as an appetite whetter.

One friend ordered the gnocchi special, deliciously prepared potato dumplings with butter, Parmigiano Reggiano and a "spot" of red sauce.

His wife chose my favorite: a Sicilian pizza (think: calzone) with raisins and spinach dressed with pomodoro sauce and Parmesan. It's an unusual combination that really works. On this night I chose penne norma with basil, pomodoro sauce, pecorino and eggplant. The penne was cooked just right, and the blend of ingredients made for a rich but not heavy dish.

Create-your-own pizzas are a favorite of many diners here. Another selection worth mentioning is Farfalle Eugenio, the chef's combination of bowtie pasta, corn, Parmigiano Reggiano and cream.

Entrees at Trinacria run $7.95-$10.95. Those numbers spell b-a-r- g-a-i-n.

In continental fashion, salads are served after the entree. They are simple: crisp greens in a vinaigrette. A welcome refresher, not overdone.

The wine list isn't long but includes a number of Italian choices. We split a bottle of Il Grigio '98 Chianti Classico Reserva that was an excellent value at $22. If you want to bring your own bottle, there's a corkage fee of $10.

Dessert choices are two: cannolo, a rolled pastry stuffed with ricotta cheese, and the coffee-laced concoction tiramisu. We had the latter and declared it tasty but not a knockout.

Service at Trinacria is given by knowledgeable women who add to the sense of ease. One quibble on my most recent visit was that a requested fork never appeared, but the service otherwise was fine.

There's a banquet room in back, charmingly decorated with art from Tumwater school students. The drawback to the banquet room is that you walk through the kitchen to get to it. Not a relaxing visual, but your nose will love it.

Sarah Scott is a free-lance writer who also works for the state House of Representatives. The reviewer makes every effort to remain anonymous. Meals are paid for by The Olympian.

REVIEW GUIDE

Five forks: Excellent

Four forks: Very good

Three forks: Good

Two forks: Average

One fork: Fair

Trinacria: FOUR FORKS

- Location: 113 Capitol Way N., Olympia. 360-352-8892.

- Hours: Dinner starting at 5:30 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday. Lunch is served from 11:30 a.m. to 1 p.m. Tuesday through Friday.

- Food: Consistently pleasing Sicilian fare with a light touch.

- Value: Very good.

- Beverages: Small but good selection of Italian wines.

- Service: Reliable and friendly.

- Atmosphere: Coziness is balanced with a dose of Olyville quirk.

- Reservations: Not required but a good idea.

- Method of payment: Local checks but no separate checks. Be forewarned: no credit cards.

- Smoking: No.

The Olympian Copyright 2002

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