La Taqueria specializes in fresh food, friendly service

SARAH SCOTT, FOR THE OLYMPIAN

Originally published Friday, March 29, 2002

Pose the question, and you'll get an answer: "Where do you go for Mexican?" We all have our favorites. For a lot of Olympia residents, the answer is La Taqueria.

The restaurant opened a few years ago on Capitol Way just north of Sylvester Park. Since then, it has branched out to Martin Way and Tenino. While the glass storefront itself isn't particularly welcoming, the attractive, low-key decor inside is. Comforting earth tones and booths aplenty are accented by artistic light fixtures and huge cacti. The main room you enter from the street is designed for efficient eating for the downtown lunch crowd, but you can keep walking to more secluded areas in back that invite quiet conversation in the evening.

On my most recent visit, we were greeted warmly by manager Raul Sanchez and in no time at all were munching La Taqueria's warm, homemade tortilla chips, delivered with a tomato-based pico de gallo and a very tasty salsa verde (green tomatillo sauce). When I expressed curiosity about cactus on the menu, Sanchez asked if I'd like to try a little and brought a small dish of it -- chewy slivers with a mild taste suggesting green chilis.

His courtesy set the standard for service throughout the meal. One longtime fan returns not just for the food but because, after only a few trips, the staff knew her drink order and tastes well enough to recommend something from the menu.

With the chips and salsa, we had happy hour-priced margaritas ($2.50 instead of $4). Ample drinks served on the rocks, these were from a mix, but I hadn't expected them to be from scratch. La Taqueria doesn't aim to be a top-flight bar. Several versions of margaritas are on the menu, along with other cocktails, a decent selection of Mexican and U.S. beers and a smattering of wines.

An excellent dish on a previous visit was the Espinaca Enchiladas ($7.25), one of the house specials. Corn tortillas are filled with mozzarella, fresh spinach, mushrooms chipotle (smoked jalapeno) and sour cream with sides of rice and black beans. On this night, again in the mood for fresh spinach, I ordered Espinaca Tamales ($5.95). The greens were stuffed into a corn meal dumpling served with rice and beans. The dish could've benefited from more spinach, but the dumpling was fat, moist and delicious. The rice was good, not extraordinary, but the black beans had exceptionally rich flavor.

One of my friends ordered taco salad ($5.95) filled with chicken (beef available), jack and cheddar cheeses, olives, tomatoes, sour cream and guacamole in a homemade tortilla shell. He liked the salad, but, as he said, it's a pretty straightforward thing.

My other friend ordered the fajita burrito ($6.50) laden heavily with strips of marinated chicken, onions and bell peppers with mozzarella and pico de gallo garnish. Her substantial entree came with creamy jalapeno dressing and beans on the side. She declared it very good.

Fish is featured in a few dishes such as a halibut taco. Some of the more adventurous entrees include beef tongue and an egg and cactus burrito.

On this visit I spotted a state representative from the Tacoma area. When I asked the next day for her review, she gave an extended rave about the fried ice cream. Easily enough for two ($3.25), La Taqueria's version comes with a strawberry crust and is served over a strawberry sauce.

Mexican food, because it quickly overfills, often leaves no room for dessert. But the legislator's enthusiasm convinced me to return sometime to try this sweet, even if it means I go straight to it from the opening act of chips and salsa.

Other desserts are churros, a traditional pastry, and, of course, the custard called flan.

Too many Mexican restaurants in this far northern corner serve food that tastes pretty much the same, no matter what you order. That can't be said of La Taqueria. Fresh ingredients (salsas made twice daily), well-crafted dishes and diligent service all are things that can be said of it.

Sarah Scott is a free-lance writer who also works for the state House of Representatives. The reviewer makes every effort to remain anonymous. Meals are paid for by The Olympian.

REVIEW GUIDE

Five forks: Excellent

Four forks: Very good

Three forks: Good

Two forks: Average

One fork: Fair

La Taqueria: 3 1/2 forks

- Location: 534 Capitol Way, Olympia. 360-357-5028.

- Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Sunday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Friday and Saturday.

- Food: A wide variety of flavorful dishes with an emphasis on freshness.

- Value: Very good, inexpensive. Lunch specials. Orders available to go.

- Beverages: Margaritas and other cocktails, Mexican and domestic beers, limited wine.

- Service: Friendly and attentive.

- Atmosphere: Tasteful. Busy in front, quieter and secluded in back.

- Reservations: Not needed except for large groups.

- Method of payment: Local checks, credit cards.

- Smoking: No.

The Olympian Copyright 2002

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