You haven't had a sub till you've tried Meconi's

BY STEVEN FASANO
FOR THE OLYMPIAN

Originally published June 15, 2001

LACEY - When I returned to the Olympia area from my educational sojourn at Wazzu some eight years ago, I thought I knew all there was to know about sub sandwiches. After all, there were nearly a half-dozen sub shops in Pullman, and they were making definite inroads on the local pizza parlors.

I soon got an education about subs when a friend asked me to meet him for a sub at an out-of-the-way place in Lacey called Meconi's. He told me he ate lunch there regularly because it was so close to his job. It was amazing to me then, and still is today what a few touches -freshly baked bread, oregano and Italian oil - will do for a sub sandwich.

When I went to the Lacey location yesterday, my dining companion and I enjoyed our meal al fresco under an umbrella, which protected us from our intermittent June sunshine. Despite the lunch rush, our sandwiches were brought to our table less than 10 minutes after we had placed our order.

I chose the full-sized Italian sub, which has capicola, salami and Italian ham combined with lettuce and tomato, plus the wonderful smoky flavor of Provolone cheese, and of course the aforementioned oregano and Italian oil.

Full-sized is pretty large, and to the surprise of my companion I actually took a little home. She had the combo sub with ham and turkey, and, of course, everything else mine had. She preferred the lighter flavor of hers to the dense, oily flavor of the salami in mine. Darn! All the more for me!

As any competent sub shop should, Meconi's offers a good selection of chips and drinks. I also admired one of their garden salads at a nearby table, and thought that one of those plus a half-sandwich might have fit the bill better for me that day.

The Meconi's eateries in Lacey and Olympia are family-owned, with the Meconis' daughter operating the Capitol Boulevard location. The menu is the same at both shops, but I have noticed the service in Lacey is a bit better on average. Maybe I'm just a sucker for a smile and warm greeting with my sub, but sometimes it can make all the difference if you're having a bad day.

So, if you want true East Coast-style Italian subs, head to Meconi's. Capisce?

Steven Fasano is an Olympia resident who works in the insurance industry. The reviewer makes every effort to remain anonymous. Meals are paid for by The Olympian.

Meconi's Italian Subs

Three forks: Good

- Location: 5225 Lacey Blvd. S.E., # A, Lacey. 360-459-0213. Also 1051 Capitol Way S., Olympia. 360-534-0240.

- Food: Good. An excellent example of East Coast-style sub sandwiches. Fresh bread, oregano and Italian oil make these sandwiches stand out.

- Value: Very good. The half-sandwiches are on average just below $3; the full size around $5.25. Most people cannot finish the full size, especially if combined with chips or fresh breadsticks, so this is very affordable.

- Beverages: Fountain drinks and an assortment of bottled drinks, including Snapple.

- Service: Lacey location: Very good. Olympia location: Good.

- Atmosphere: Good. Lacey is a bit more laid back with tables out front in nice weather, while the Olympia shop enjoys the hustle and bustle of being near the Capitol building.

- Hours: 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. Monday through Friday, 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. Saturdays, closed on Sundays. - Reservations: No. Delivery available with minimum order of $20.

- Credit cards: MasterCard and Visa. Local checks accepted.

- Smoking: No.

- Children: If your children like bologna, blow their minds and get them an Italian!

  REVIEW GUIDE

Five forks: Excellent

Four forks: Very good

Three forks: Good

Two forks: Average

One fork: Fair

The Olympian Copyright 2001

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