Tillicum's Planet Burrito was no galactic marvel, but I was still saddened to see it go. In its place now stands House of Teriyaki #2. The familiar views of mountain ash, trailer homes and I-5 traffic remain.

The new restaurant promises "Great Taste & More." There are a variety of inexpensive ways to test this culinary claim. One might order the teriyaki pork, garlic chicken, broccoli beef, vegetable yakisoba or prawn tempura.

I started with the prawn tempura ($6.95) and found little to my liking. The broccoli was overcooked; the onion was under-peeled. And the accompanying salad was no better: iceberg lettuce, adrift in a sea of dressing.

I had better luck with the kimchi ($1.95). A generous serving of the Korean cabbage helped to kick-start what was shaping up to be a lackluster meal.

And then there was the miso soup ($1.50). Only the Morton's salt girl, umbrella in hand, could have loved it.

My friend, an old barbecue hand, enjoyed the bulgogi (Korean-style grilled beef and vegetables, $5.25). Like many of the entrees at House of Teriyaki #2, the bulgogi could easily serve two. (The fried rice could feed an entire Sunday softball league.)

Nothing at the restaurant costs more than $7.95, and nine combination deals allow for wide sampling. Mints are free, but (as the sign warns) -Only take one!›

Those who remember the Planet Burrito layout will find little changed. Lush ferns gather under a central skylight. African violets rest on the windowsills. One addition: a well-stocked magazine rack. I caught up on back issues of Jane, People and Sporting News.

One article in Jane gave me pause. It told the story of two people who tried to gain 30 pounds in 30 days. I looked at my empty basket of tempura (lousy as it was, I ate every fried bit) and saw my future.

Another article, this one from People, offered hope. John Malkovich apparently lost 60 pounds in high school after eating mostly Jell-O for three months.

House of Teriyaki #2 doesn't currently offer sweets (except for those mints). How about a delicious Jell-O No Bake Peanut Butter Cup Dessert?

Cody Walker is a writer and teacher who divides his time between Olympia and Seattle. The reviewer makes every effort to remain anonymous. Meals are paid for by The Olympian.

House of Teriyaki #2

Two forks: Average

-Location: 14623 Union Ave. S.W., Tillicum. 253-588-1133.

- Food: Fair to average. Choices include vegetable tempura, garlic chicken, beef ribs and fried rice. Teriyaki, of course, is in the house.

- Value: Good. Entrées cost between $3.50 and $7.95; portions are enormous. - Beverages: Soft drinks, juice, sports drinks, tea, coffee.

-Service: Good. Friendly and low-key.

- Atmosphere: Average. Comfortable booths. Lots of natural light.

-Hours: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday to Saturday.

- Reservations: No. Call ahead for take-out orders.

- Credit cards: Visa and MasterCard. No checks.

- Smoking: No.

- For children: Yes. High chairs and booster seats available. I saw a 3-year- old kid in a tie-dyed shirt really enjoying himself.