Honest burgers, 'goop' keep Eagan's fans loyal

BY STEVEN FASANO
FOR THE OLYMPIAN

Originally published June 29, 2001

TUMWATER - All restaurants are looking for something to make them unique that sets them apart from the rest. The claim to fame for Eagan's Drive-In is "goop," a special topping for hamburgers and an often requested side for french fries or onion rings.

Many regulars have figured out the main three ingredients in goop: mayonnaise, mustard and sweet pickle relish. But there's at least one other ingredient that Tim Eagan, who owns the less well-known restaurant on Capitol Boulevard, won't reveal. Said to be created by his grandmother, Millie, more than 50 years ago, you could say it is the creamy substance that has held together this local hamburger dynasty.

"Big Tom" Eagan retired from the burger field when the lease on his last location in Tumwater ran out. But son Tim had been approached by a local nursery on Capitol Boulevard about installing an espresso stand, and the location turned out to be uniquely suited for a new restaurant.

On a recent visit, I proceeded outside to a picnic table surrounded by trees and local plants, courtesy of Courtyard Nursery, after receiving my sourdough burger with fries and a thick blackberry shake. I was entertained by a couple of singing birds and a crow that sounded as if he was ticked that I wouldn't share any fries.

My daughter loved having squirrels around to watch outside.

This new location has a rather large indoor seating area, which should come in handy for the Eagan's annual July 4 Hot Rod and Harley show. The atmosphere inside reminds me of the burgers I used to get with my family more than 25 years ago at another Eagan's location, but the prices don't. My early lunch came to $6.12 with tax.

Something that has changed from the old location is the hours. Eagan's is now open on Sundays, a welcome change for people who had no choice except for chain restaurants open seven days a week. Eagan's also stays open later most other nights, until at least 8 p.m.

So if you want to dine where the meat tastes like meat, the milkshakes are thick and real, and the goop shall ever remain a mystery, stop in at the new Eagan's location.

Steven Fasano is an Olympia resident who works in the insurance industry. The reviewer makes every effort to remain anonymous. Meals are paid for by The Olympian.

Eagan's Drive-In & Espresso

Three forks: Good

- Location: 6400 Capitol Blvd. S., Tumwater. 360-357-9349.

- Food: Very good. Authentic burgers, thickly battered onion rings, and of course, goop!

- Value: Good. The sourdough burger with a rather large portion of fries and a small shake came to $6.12 with tax.

- Beverages: Early morning visitors can enjoy the espresso made from Batdorf & Bronson beans, while the lunch and dinner crowd can savor the thick shakes or soda from the fountain.

- Service: Good. Prompt attention at the counter, and the staff is more than willing to answer questions about the menu and location.

- Atmosphere: Good. It's hard to beat being surrounded by singing birds and blooming trees and shrubs, but the empty paper baskets littering the area detracted from the overall feeling.

-Hours: 6:30 a.m. to 8 p.m. Monday through Thursday, 6:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. Fridays, 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. Saturdays and 10 a.m. to 6:30 p.m. Sundays.

- Reservations: No.

- Credit cards: No.

- Smoking: No.

- Children: Yes. Smaller-sized burgers are available for the smaller appetite.

  REVIEW GUIDE

Five forks: Excellent

Four forks: Very good

Three forks: Good

Two forks: Average

One fork: Fair

The Olympian Copyright 2001

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