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Dining 2001 DINING REVIEW
Promising aromas deliver at eclectic Capitale Grill STEVEN FASANO, FOR THE OLYMPIAN Originally published July 20, 2001
OLYMPIA -- Dining at Capitale
Fusion Grill on a warm summer night is akin to being right in the
middle of the oven with the very aromatic main dishes. I am grateful
that the entrees smelled one heck of a lot better than my dining companions
and I did in that heat!
Capitale is a bustling place, not only from the regulars who frequent
the restaurant, but from the wait staff/owners who like to make
sure that everything is going exactly as it should with your meal.
The fusion in the name is in reference to the Asian, Cajun and Mediterranean
influences on the eclectic dishes served with a stylized presentation.
One of my dining companions chose two appetizers as her main course.
The Curried Chicken Satay had tender chicken and a pungent hoisin
and peanut sauce. Her second choice was the table's favorite: oven-roasted
wild mushrooms with goat cheese drizzled in cilantro oil and served
with pizzettas. What a heavenly concoction! The aromas preceding
its arrival were like ambrosia! When we ran out of pizzettas to
spread it over, we dug in with spoons.
We all chose to have salads, as the menu is strictly a la carte.
I chose the mixed greens with house dressing, only to find that
while the greens were wonderfully fresh, the dressing seemed to
have been applied with an eyedropper. My companion who chose the
Caesar salad was much more pleased with his selection.
My choice off the entree section was the Grilled Chipotle Shrimp
Tostadas, layered with black bean relish, roasted peppers and cojita
cheese. It was listed on the menu as spicy, but beyond a little
zing of the chipotle, it was mild yet intriguing.
Our other companion, being rather conservative, chose the grilled
stuffed chicken breast with sage, goat cheese, proscuitto and roasted
garlic cream sauce. He was a bit concerned about the prospect of
eating goat cheese but enjoyed it nonetheless.
Although a bit full and sluggish because of the heat, we plunged
ahead and ordered a single dessert for the three of us off the specials
list: a praline and peach torte that we requested warmed and served
with ice cream. We were all surprised and disappointed that the
ice cream proved to be white chocolate instead of vanilla. Although
the ice cream is made locally and is excellent, the flavor was not
a good counterpoint to the dangerously rich torte.
Our dinner was a meandering affair. The menu notes: "In the interest
of quality and freshness, each dish is prepared to order. Your patience
with our chefs is appreciated." In other words, don't go into Capitale
for dinner expecting to be in and out in a hurry. Stay put, sweat
if you have to, and enjoy the warmth of the experience.
Steven Fasano is an Olympia resident who works in the insurance
industry. The reviewer makes every effort to remain anonymous. Meals
are paid for by The Olympian.
Capitale Fusion Grill
Three forks: Good
- Location: 609 Capitol Way S., Olympia. 360-352-8007.
- Food: Very good. The fusion of flavors the restaurant's name
refers to is evident and delicious.
- Value: Good. Although the menu is a la carte, which can inflate
prices, the quality of the cuisine and presentation make up for
it. Expect entrees to range from $12 to $16 and appetizers from
$3.50 to $7.50.
- Beverages: A decent if modest wine list. Not all of the beers
listed were available during a recent visit. Sodas, espresso and
tea served as well.
- Service: Very good, if a bit frantic. The staff, which includes
the owner, is available at your beck and call.
- Atmosphere: Good but unpleasantly hot on warm days. The restaurant
could use a better ventilation system. It was fun to watch the kitchen
staff at work.
- Hours: Lunch served 11:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. Monday through Friday,
dinner served 5 to 9 p.m. Monday through Saturday. Closed on Sundays.
- Reservations: Recommended.
- Credit cards: MasterCard and Visa.
- Smoking: No.
- Children: No children's menu.
REVIEW GUIDE
Five forks: Excellent
Four forks: Very good
Three forks: Good
Two forks: Average
One fork: Fair
The Olympian Copyright 2001 back to main DINING REVIEWS index
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