Consider color and height when planting borders

MARGARET C. CROOKS, GANNETT NEWS SERVICE

The classic mixed border or English border takes several seasons to mature and, the gardener will find, changes over the years. There are a few elements that will determine the success or failure of the design.

- Avoid "stair steps" -- meaning all the low plants along the edge, then medium, then tall at the back. The border will be more pleasing visually if some of the low growers extend back into the border and some of the taller ones advance.

- Plant in drifts rather than blocks. In very formal gardens, repetition often is used. Plant collectors might repeat color combinations but, because they are by nature acquisitive, use a wide variety of plants.

- Think of green as a color since all the flowers will not bloom all season. Use grays, dark and pale greens and, with restraint, variegated foliage.

- Unless the garden is to be admired in only one season, strive for year-round interest with the addition of winter-flowering species, bulbs, heat lovers and plants with fall interest. Color is, of course, most important.

Gertrude Jekyll, probably the most important garden designer of the 19th and 20th centuries, used a color progression as well as sections thereof. Her progression went from the palest pinks and yellows, growing stronger until scarlet and gold predominate, then bringing in blues gradually with blue-reds and purples and bright blues, then softening again through lavender and pale blue and white.

For best effect, the border should be at least 8 feet wide. If it is backed by a wall or hedge so the back can't be reached without stepping into the garden, stepping stones can be laid throughout to allow working without compacting the soil.

Much has been made of "architectural" plants and ornamental grasses. Beware. Bold forms are needed, but overuse is disturbing. Ornamental grasses can be attractive when the winter sun shines through but look like goosegrass for a good part of the season.

Acanthus and mahonia are fine for bold accents. Add color with the violet spikes of acanthus, commonly called bears' breech, and the golden flowers of mahonia in earliest spring followed by handsome blue berries.

For height, shrubs such as purple smoke tree and butterfly bush work nicely. These are cut to the ground in early spring.

Shrub roses, pillars and climbers are appropriate in just about any garden. Disease-free roses such as exuberant "Lady Banks" with white or yellow flowers and neat "Knock Out" with strong red single bloom do not become diseased. Unfortunately, Lady Banks flowers only in late spring but the stems are green year around. Knock Out flowers from late May until hard freeze.

When using spikes, such as delphinium or gladiolus, group several of the same cultivar to avoid a single whisker look. The same theory applies to low mounds -- group them in irregular drifts to avoid the green meatball look.

Take a tip from the English and allow clematis to wander through the garden rather than training it to a trellis. Allow it to climb the roses and other shrubs.

Margaret C. Crooks is a horticulturist and writer. Only questions of general interest will be answered. Readers can e-mail her at pcrooks@greenvillenc.com. She is past president of Garden Writers of America. Readers can send questions about garden problems to Margaret Crooks in care of the Asbury Park Press, 3601 Highway 66, Neptune, Box 1550, NJ 07754-1551.

The Olympian Copyright 2001

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