N.S. Nokkentved/The Olympian
Sea kayaker Greg Lewis, who has been paddling sea kayaks for 25 years, enjoys the scenic South Sound from sea level.

Scenic waters

Sea kayaking rides a rising tide of popularity in South Sound

STORIES BY N.S. NOKKENTVED, THE OLYMPIAN

Originally published July 31

OLYMPIA -- The sleek hull slips quietly through the water with little effort.

The blue shadow of the Olympic Mountains rises above the trees of Squaxin Island across Dana Passage.

Morning sun sparkles on the water in the fresh marine air. A curious harbor seal surfaces for a look.

It's easy to see why Greg Lewis, 36, is hooked on sea kayaking.

He has been paddling South Sound for 25 years and has seen the sport boom in recent years. When Lewis started kayaking in a homemade boat bought from a neighbor, he had the water mostly to himself.

-ow on weekends it's not uncommon to see 30 to 40 boats off Boston Harbor when the weather is nice. But the best time to go for solitude is during the week, he says.

"It's the right way to get on the water in the South Sound," says Henry Romer, who started kayaking local waters five years ago and now teaches a sea kayaking class.

South Sound waters are incredibly accessible, Romer says. From Boston Harbor he can be paddling in wild country in 15 minutes.

The area is flush with protected waters, and the currents and tides are predictable. The area offers novice and veterans paddlers alike remote and isolated inlets and coves to explore or places, such as at the Squaxin Reef during low tide, to check out marine life.

Hope Island is a short trip from Boston Harbor or the Arcadia boat ramp at the mouth of Hammersly Inlet. The island at the confluence of Totten Inlet, Hammersly Inlet and Pickering Passage is an undeveloped marine state park accessible only by boat. It offers picnicking, hiking and beachcombing.

Kayaking is a great way to see wildlife -- paddling with the seals, says Nancy Heyen, 46, risk manager with the Association of Washington Cities.

"I'm a water person," says Heyen, who has been sea kayaking in South Sound about six years. "I just think kayaks are a neat watercraft."

Schools of small fish roil the water and flash in the morning sun just below the surface. A great blue heron, contemplating our approach, rises from a stump.

Lewis' favorite places to paddle in South Sound include Hammersly Inlet, where a kayaker can ride up with the tide, turn around and ride back with the outgoing tide. He also likes the Nisqually Delta at high tide.

He's not alone.

Don McHugh and his sister, Pam, run Boston Harbor Marina and say their kayak rental business has nearly tripled every year since they started five years ago. About 90 percent of people who rent boats come back to learn more about sea kayaking, Don McHugh says. They ask about lessons, safety, tours with a guide and buying a boat.

Sea kayaks come in a variety of styles, from long, skinny, single-person, high-performance boats to wide, stable, two-person models with room for gear or a third person, a couple of kids or the dog.

Most of the marina's customers are aging baby boomers who want to remain active, like the outdoors and are concerned about fitness, fresh air and something they can do with their friends, Pam McHugh says.

Sea kayaking is for people of all ages, and people can paddle at their own pace, she says. Learning the basics takes only a few minutes, she says. But it is safest for beginners not to venture too far from shore without an experienced partner.

With a little experience, the sea kayak that felt tippy at first begins to feel responsive.

After his first taste of sea kayaking, Romer recognized he needed training. He hooked up with the Tacoma branch of the Mountaineers for a sea kayaking class. Since then, he has paddled all of the shorelines south of the Seattle-Bremerton ferry route.

"All things being equal, I'd rather be paddling," he says.

Lessons cover proper paddling, respect for the elements, how to read wind and currents and how to get back in the boat if you tip over. The key to safety is good judgment, Heyen says.

She favors packing camping gear in the kayak. And one of her favorite places is the San Juan Islands. But kayakers have to know what they're doing, and they have to be wary of tricky currents in unfamiliar areas.

Heyen, too, is seeing more people on the water. She gets out all year, but finds solitude in winter.

"You don't see many people out there in February," she says.

N.S. Nokkentved covers the outdoors for The Olympian. He can be reached at 360-754-5445.

Sea kayak lessons

Anyone thinking of taking advantage of the plentiful local opportunities for sea kayaking should learn some basic paddling and safety before setting out, experienced kayakers say.

- Skookum Bay Outfitters offers a weekly Saturday evening class in YMCA pool for $35; call 360-352-4616.

- Lacey Parks and Recreation offers two, 2 1/2-hour sessions on consecutive Thursdays. The next class is Aug. 9 and 16 for $85; call 360-491-0857.

- Boston Harbor Marina offers private lessons at $30 an hour or classes lasting four to five hours for $60; call 360-357-5670.

- Olympia Mountaineers offers comprehensive sea kayaking class in spring, which includes three lectures and sessions in pool, Deep Lake and saltwater for $100.

Renting gear

Sea kayak sales, rentals and guided tours in South Sound:

- Boston Harbor Marina, 360-357-5670.

- Skookum Bay Outfitters, 360-352-4616.

- Tahoma Outdoor Pursuits, 253-474-8155.

The Olympian Copyright 2001

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