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Outdoors: Hiking
Deception Pass MORE THAN MEETS THE EYE Washington's most popular park has room to accommodate the masses it hosts SHARON WOOTTON AND MAGGIE SAVAGE, FOR THE OLYMPIAN Originally published September 25, 2001
DECEPTION PASS -- A totem pole and rocky headlands; kinnikinick, kelp and kingfishers; swirling currents, joyful children at Cranberry Lake and relaxed adults on driftwood are but a taste of the visual menu at Deception Pass State Park.
If your passion is solitude, look elsewhere.
Although it's hard to imagine, 2.9 million people visited the park in 2000, not counting folks who park for 5 minutes at graceful Deception Pass bridge, oooh and aaah at the sights, then drive on.
"People think of Deception Pass as just that area on north Whidbey Island," says park manager Bill Overby. "The reality is much larger. It goes into the city limits of Anacortes and within 3 miles of Oak Harbor. We have nine islands, and we count attendance at a number of entry points."
For those who play well with others, Washington's most popular state park is a treat on many levels. Campgrounds and day-use areas attract families. Photographers find stunning headlands, beaches, lakes and sunsets.
-ature lovers are surrounded by a beautiful forest with towering Douglas fir, wind-swept bluffs and beaches, contorted madrona trees, tidepools filled with marine life, and about 175 species of birds.
One reason for elbow room despite the body count is found in the park's statistics: 4,171 acres with 77,000 feet of saltwater shoreline, 256 campsites, eight day-use areas, 311 picnic sites, one environmental learning center, 38 miles of trails and four lakes.
The view from the two-span bridge that connects Fidalgo and Whidbey islands has eye candy views of the park. Sightseers may be treated to a boat challenged by the swirling current squeezing through the narrow passes.
When the Navy arrived, there were reports that some hotshot fliers took their fighter planes underneath the bridge. That practice has been banned.
The bridge connects the two main sections of the park, with Rosario Head, Bowman Bay, Pass Lake and Reservation Head on the north side of the bridge; and Cranberry Lake (yes, wild cranberries grow here), Rosario Strait, West Beach and North Beach on the south side.
The park can be dangerous around the edges. In June 2000, a 12-year-old boy died after falling into the water not very far from the visitors parking area.
"We do a considerable amount of first aid and rescue," Overby says. "Stay on the main trails. (Parents) should make sure that they exercise proper discretion in holding their hands.
"Animals and people will have a tendency to establish social trails off the main one, and that can lead to disastrous results. We provide up-to-date trail maps."
Overby suggests an approach to seeing the park on a day trip.
"In the recreation business, it's preparation, preparation, preparation. Stop at the park office to obtain maps and brochures, and contact us ahead of time," he says.
"If you have in mind what your likes and dislikes are for the outdoors, it's easier to accommodate you, to steer you in a direction where you won't be intimidated or where you'll get the most bang for your buck."
For first-timers, Overby nominates Rosario Beach.
"It's a day-use area with a great deal of diversity, shoreline, a kitchen shelter that can be reserved, picnic tables, fantastic tidepools for explorations and a nice trail into the Bowman Bay area."
Sharon Wootton and Maggie Savage are free-lance writers from the San Juan Islands.
Deception Pass State Park
- Where: Whidbey and Fidalgo islands.
- History: Pass was named Deception during 1792 Vancouver expedition.
- Directions: From Mukilteo-Clinton ferry, drive north on Highway 525, which changes to state Route 20. Drive through Oak Harbor. Ride 10 miles to park entrance.
- Visitor center: At southern entrance; brochures and directions to area attractions. Call 360-675-7277.
- Trails: Get map at ranger booth.
- Guided walks: 11 a.m. Tuesdays and Fridays. One- to two-hour-long interpretive, ranger-led walks.
- Information: Call 360-675-2417; reservations, 800-452-5687.
Your options
Here are some sightseeing options at and around Deception Pass State Park:
North of the bridge
- Canoe Pass, Lighthouse Point: Starting in Bowman Bay parking lot, trail to Lighthouse Point features an exposed rocky bluff with marine views. Canoe Pass vista offers rocky coves and great view of pass.
- Rosario Beach: The Maiden of Deception Pass story pole is near pebbly beach, depicting a story of Samish nation. More than 300 types of plants and animals are in intertidal zone, rangers say.
- Rosario Head: A short walk leads to a headland with views of kelp rafts from 100-foot-high bluffs at Vista Point, and views to San Juan Islands. Trails from Bowman Bay lead up here, too.
South of the bridge
Two easy loop hikes are suitable for children. Drive to the West Beach parking area, the start of both trails.
- North Beach: For this 2-mile round trip, start at rocky West Point (north) end of lot. Enjoy views of Rosario Strait, Deception Pass and bridge. At low tide, walk on beach as well as wooded upland to foot of the bridge. Come back through upper forested trail.
- Sand Dune Trail/Cranberry Lake: A 1-mile loop starts at Cranberry Lake end of lot with paved path to restrooms. There are dunes, saltwater beach, lake, and platform overlooking marsh.
- Goose Rock: There's more room to roam east of state Route 20, including Goose Rock Summit Trail and Goose Rock Perimeter Trail east of bridge.
Oak Harbor
Oak Harbor can be a port in the storm but isn't the typical tourist destination.
- Entertainment includes theater, pony rides and golf course. The red Neil Barn, once the largest barn on West Coast, now houses roller-skating rink. Adjacent and unusual-looking Neil Tower houses Ward Museum.
- The economy is dictated more by Whidbey Island Naval Air Station (hear jets) than tourist traffic. Visitor's center (360-675-3535) is on north end of town.
- Don't miss Oak Harbor Beach Park if you have kids. Check out blarney stone dedicated to town's first Irish settlers (1858), windmill-turned-paddle-boat rental office and scenic and paved beach walk.
- Commercially, it's pretty much strip-mall scene on main drag except for small downtown section with basic mix of shops (plus Chocolates for Breakfast and Truly Magic Toys).
- Lodging: Acorn Motor Inn, 800-280-6646; Auld Holland Inn, with a windmill suite, 800-228-0148; Best Western Harbor Plaza, 800-927-5478; North Whidbey Inn, 360-675-5911; Victorian Rose B&B, 360-675-8197. Prices range from $45-$225.
On the web:
The Olympian Copyright 2001 back to main Outdoors: Hiking index
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