The Associated Press
Chicken, Potato and Pepper Stew is almost a soup, says food writer Roy Finamore.

The Associated Press
Potato Salad with Sweet Pickles and Buttermilk Dressing is great with barbecue, Finamore says.

All about potatoes

Comprehensive cookbook covers America's favorite tuber;

BARBARA ALBRIGHT THE ASSOCIATED PRESS

WILTON, Conn. -- Roy Finamore is a leading editor of cookbook and lifestyle books written by well-knowns including Martha Stewart, Anne Willan and Diana Kennedy.

Now, he has stepped out from behind his editor's desk and into the kitchen. Finamore, along with food writer Molly Stevens, has produced his own book, a comprehensive tome on America's favorite tuber: "One Potato, Two Potato" (Houghton Mifflin, $35.00).

It is packed with information and recipes, with enough variations, anecdotes and serving suggestions to make them totally accessible for the home cook.

Like Finamore himself, the recipes' headnotes are personable and fun. You can imagine the good times he and Stevens had in the kitchen as they tested the recipes.

The book has a section on choosing and cooking potatoes, as well as information on other cooking basics. Then there are about 300 recipes ranging from appetizers, main dishes and side dishes to desserts, some of them shown in color photos.

Finamore's favorite recipe? He says the Farmhouse Chocolate Cake is one. I asked Finamore, who is based in New York City, if he was tired of potatoes. He sounded incredulous at the thought.

"How could that be?

"Yes, I did work on developing and testing for about two years -- Molly and I went through about 1,500 pounds of potatoes -- but the thing about potatoes is that they're so incredibly versatile," he explained.

Roasted Potato Skins

Basic recipe:

4 russet potatoes (each about 3/4 pound), scrubbed

Heat the oven to 350 degrees.

Place the potatoes on the center oven rack and bake until tender enough that you can easily make an indentation by squeezing, 60 to 70 minutes. About halfway through baking, prick the skins in a few spots with a fork to allow steam to escape.

Let the potatoes cool on a rack for at least 1 hour. (The skins tend to tear if you try to prepare them when the potatoes are still warm.)

Heat the oven to 450 degrees.

Slice each potato lengthwise in half and scoop out most of the flesh, leaving a one-fourth- to one-third-inch layer of flesh on the skin, just enough to keep the skins from being too flimsy. Using a very sharp knife or scissors, cut the skins lengthwise into 1-inch-wide strips. Ordinarily, you will get 3 strips from each potato half.

Arrange the strips close together, skin side down, on a baking sheet. Brush them with olive oil or melted butter, according to the topping recipe. Scatter the topping onto the skins (avoid overloading, which makes the skins hard to eat and less crisp). Roast until browned and very crisp, 18 to 20 minutes.

Serve hot. You may want to dollop sour cream on the hot skins -- especially the bacon and Jack ones.

Makes about 2 dozen.

Bacon and Jack Cheese Potato Skins

4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, melted

Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper

4 slices bacon, lightly cooked and chopped

1/2 cup shredded Monterey Jack (about 2 ounces)

Line up potato skins (prepared as above) on a baking sheet so they are very close together but not overlapping. Brush the tops with the butter and season with salt and pepper. Scatter with the bacon and cheese. Roast as directed in the basic recipe.

Scalloped Potatoes with Sausage and Peppers

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 pound sweet Italian sausage, casings removed

2 onions, thinly sliced

1 large red bell pepper, cored, seeded and cut into 1/3-inch strips

1 large green bell pepper, cored, seeded, and cut into 1/3-inch strips

Coarse salt

2 garlic cloves, minced

1 teaspoon dried oregano, preferably Mexican

Pinch of crushed red pepper

1 cup canned tomatoes, with their juices

1 3/4 pounds all-purpose or russet potatoes

1/4 cup all-purpose flour

1/2 cup freshly grated Pecorino or Parmesan

Freshly ground black pepper

2 cups half-and-half

Heat the oil in a large, heavy skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Crumble in the sausage and cook, stirring and breaking up the meat with the side of your spoon, until it loses its pink color. Spoon off all but about a tablespoon of the fat.

Add the onions and bell peppers, season with salt, and cook, stirring frequently, until the vegetables are soft, about 10 minutes. Add a tablespoon or two of water if the pan dries out and the vegetables start to stick. Add the garlic and cook for about 1 minute, until fragrant. Then add the oregano, crushed red pepper and tomatoes. Stir and break up the tomatoes with the side of your spoon and cook until very thick, about 7 minutes. Remove from the heat.

Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Grease a 3-quart casserole.

Peel the potatoes and cut them into one-eighth-inch-thick slices. Combine the flour with one-fourth cup of the cheese.

Place one-third of the potatoes in a layer in the casserole. Season with salt and pepper and sprinkle with half the flour mix. Spoon on half the sausage and peppers. Again, layer potatoes, with salt and pepper, the rest of the flour mixture, and the rest of the sausage and peppers. Top with a layer of potatoes and season with salt and pepper. Pour in the half-and-half and cover the casserole with aluminum foil. Bake for 45 minutes.

Uncover the casserole and push the potatoes down with a spatula or the back of spoon to submerge them. Sprinkle with the remaining one-fourth cup cheese and bake for another 40 minutes or so.

The top of the casserole will be a rich brown, the potatoes easily pierced with a knife, and the dish will be very juicy. Let it rest for at least 20 minutes before serving.

Makes 4 to 6 servings.

Chicken, Potato, and Pepper Stew

1 tablespoon olive oil

One 3-pound chicken, cut into serving pieces

Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 1/2 pounds yellow-fleshed potatoes, peeled and cut into large chunks

4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter

3 red bell peppers, cored, seeded and coarsely chopped

3 ripe plum tomatoes, coarsely chopped

1 cup dry white wine

1 cup chicken stock or broth

Pinch of saffron

1 teaspoon grated orange zest

2 1/2 to 3 pounds spinach, stems removed and well washed

Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Season the chicken pieces with salt and pepper and brown them lightly on all sides. Remove the chicken to a plate.

Add the potatoes and 1 tablespoon of the butter to the skillet. Sprinkle in a bit of salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the potatoes begin to brown on their edges, 7 to 8 minutes. Add the bell peppers and tomatoes, season with salt and pepper, and cook for a minute. Pour in the wine and bring to a boil. Be sure to scrape the bottom of the pan to release any browned bits left from the chicken and potatoes.

Once the stew is boiling, pour in the stock and crumble in the saffron. Nestle the chicken into the liquid. Bring it again to a boil, then reduce to a simmer, cover, and cook gently for 45 minutes, or until the chicken is cooked and the potatoes are tender. Stir in the orange zest and check the seasoning.

Meanwhile, bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add a big pinch of salt and the spinach. Bring to a boil and cook for a minute or two, until the spinach is completely wilted. Drain, refresh the spinach with cold water, drain again, and squeeze out excess moisture.

Just before you are ready to serve the stew, melt the remaining 3 tablespoons butter in a skillet over medium-low heat. Add the spinach and toss it in the butter until heated through. Check for salt and pepper.

Divide the spinach among your soup dishes, making a pile in the middle of each. Ladle in the stew to surround the spinach (with lots of broth), and serve.

Makes 4 to 6 servings.

For related stories go to the South Sound Living section.

The Olympian Copyright 2002

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